@EricM_Inovelli came in for the win. You can use a wire nuts from the PKG to hook up the neutral to the switch if you wanted instead of wiring both neutrals through the switch.
@EricM_Inovelli That worked!!! So ONE of my two 3-way switches are working. Now if I can get that last one working I’ll be golden!
Thank you so much!!
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@EricM_Inovelli, @Eric_Inovelli I’m starting to believe the first 3-way I mentioned in here is probably not wired the way I thought it was. Here’s pictures of the wiring. Unfortunately getting pictures at the lights are going to be extremely difficult.
This is the switch where power source comes in from the box. Or at least I’m assuming that.
Unfortunately I’m limited to one image per post. See the next posts.
I’m guessing there IS a possibility my wiring could be like this
Sadly I won’t know unless I can either get into my attic or drop the light. Either way it’s about 10 feet up and over a stairway.
I may wind up having to bring in an electrician to take a look. If I did, what should I mention to them in order to rewire it for a Z-Wave switch?
@EricM_Inovelli I’m in the same boat … almost (as the 2 traveler wires for the remote switch/box 2 are reversed). I’m wondering on the “should work” context above the diagram. Was this something you tested and got it working because I can definitely rewire/flip mine to match it.
edit: the diagram does match the one on page 6 of the instruction that came with the red series… so it probably not a one-off solution.
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Dang, that is a fun wiring schematic. 
Of course I encourage you to consult an electrician but some general words of advice:
Looking at it the idea is the same as the one I posted earlier. The main differences is that the Line is being fed from the lights and going into the common screw. So that would need to go into the line for the Inovelli. The red & white wire would go to the load and traveler, and the common from switch 2 would come back to the switch 1 location and back up to the lights (wire nut at switch 1 location).
I haven’t tested this diagram exactly, but have tested similar.
If your wiring is like this diagram, you likely don’t have a neutral If you trace white wire from the source, it doesn’t go directly to the switch (it goes through a bulb first). This means when the light is turned off the switch itself also loses power.
@EricM_Inovelli, Yeah at first when I looked at it, I thought the one wire was the line, and the other went to the first light, then to the second, then to the switch. But when I look at how the wires are connected in that one box, I don’t believe that’s the case anymore. I think I’m going to wind up eventually getting an electrician to take a look at it and possibly wind up rewiring it depending on how it’s currently wired.
@jtronicus, That’s one of the things I was worried about when I started taking a closer look.
Considering all of this is based off a hunch on what I’m seeing at the boxes where the switches are, I just think it’ll be safer at this point to have someone who knows what they’re doing look at the whole thing. I definitely appreciate all the help and thankfully we got one of the 3 ways working without hiring someone.