Switch are in smart bulb mode. I do control dimming of the light with the mirror app. The issue is not with the main switch, which like I said I can see the LED level when dimming on the switch itself, so when I release the paddle, the light go to an expected light level. The problem is with the remote AUX switch, that it doesn’t generate the scene events like the local switch does, so I couldn’t do different action for the AUX switch control. So I can’t override the behavior of long pressing up or down to do something different than the dimmer changing locally.
The best solution would be for the Switch to send the light level during the progress of dimming up and down. So Hubitat could be triggered by those and send it to the hue light and have an actual real time visual change update of the light output level while dimming.
I wasn’t looking at a fix with the current light setup here, just saying one of my issues / experience which might give idea for dev to implement something hardware before it is constructed.
Zwave does have this via associations. Start dimming, stop dimming, and final value are all sent/coordinated. If you set ramp rates the same, you get a near-perfect dim.
Between different tech it’s almost impossible to get it to work cleanly.
So a lot of discussion and variations of features here, so what are these? Could we have a summary of features and anything that may still be up in the air, preferably linked to the pre-order page if possible?
Yeah, 3 lines, saying works with red or blue series, which is a great start. However there is a config button that may or may not do anything, there was something in the thread about it working with dumb switches, we don’t know how big it is or how much load it can safely use, etc
The config button (and paddle) will be able to trigger scenes from the Blue Series but not the Red (the same scenes as if you’re clicking the Blue directly, not additional scenes). Like Eric mentioned above, the Red series isn’t able to detect the multi-taps.
Regarding dumb switches, are you asking about an auxiliary switch with a dumb switch? These don’t have any smarts built into them so I don’t think there would be a reason to go with that setup. If you’re asking about a 4 way where you have a Blue Series, an Auxiliary Switch, and a Dumb Switch all together, that I’m not sure on offhand but my gut would lean towards that being problematic. The reason there being that the firmware allows you to set whether the switch is being used with Aux or Dumb switches, and not sure that a hybrid would work. Looks to be one or the other based on the wiring schematics. You’ll also note in those schematics that the Aux switch itself doesn’t actually get wired up to the load, so that’s why you’re not going to get that kind of information on the product page either.
Also want to comment that pulling the air gap also can’t possibly disconnect the load since the load isn’t wired to the aux switch. I’m not sure why it’s even there because it’s just misleading.
Scenes are only available with Blue Series. Red Series do not recognize multi taps from Aux switch (limitation on hardware or firmware; can’t remember).
Ok, that’s one of the missing pieces. You’re implying that it is a remote, rather than hard-wired dumb switch that looks like a smartswitch.
Yes, depth of product would also be useful. Many of the products here specify dimensions and that can be critical for those of us with old, small, overcrowded junction boxes.
Yes, it is an Aux switch similar to those presently compatible with Inovellis. It looks like a smart switch as it has a config button and an air gap, but it does not have an LED.
It’s about 1 1/8" measuring from the back of the strap.
Project Update: Sorry all, this project slips through the cracks as most of my focus is on the 2-1. But all good news, these have also passed UL and will be in production at the same time as the 2-1, which we’re targeting the first couple weeks of August.
Here’s some quick shots of the packaging and the manual!
I will make sure to call it out in the instructions.
But what does that do? Telling someone in the installation instructions that a safety feature is fake doesn’t matter 10 years from now when a completely different user tries to use it for it’s intended purpose. I find it hard to believe that you’d be able to settle a lawsuit from the family of someone that electrocutes themselves by saying “Oh, the electrician that installed this 10 years ago should have told you that the air gap switch didn’t create an actual air gap.”
That’s like selling a rifle and having safety switches on both the left and right side but the one on the left side is a dummy and including a note in the box saying “Only the right side safety switch disables the gun”. If the left side switch actually moves like a safety, it’s more dangerous than if it didn’t exist, and no disclaimer note is going to change that.
There’s ways of making the plate look the same without it giving the physical feedback of something functional. Like if instead of it pulling out it just fell off into your hand, that would clue someone in to the notion that it isn’t working as an air gap switch. I’d even suggest gluing it in place if I didn’t think a user would just pull harder until it snapped off and then they’d have a broken face. Unfortunately, that’s likely what I’d have to do if I installed these. That switch has to fail to act like an air gap switch if I’m going to trust future me or some future owner of my home to attempt to use it as it appears.
How is this an Inovelli problem? I wouldn’t even place it on a disclosure (and I didn’t) because it’s not required. It’s wired to NEC and is UL approved. Sounds like the new homeowner should do their due diligence instead of blaming the manufacturer.
Same with the rifle. I know how to operate my rifles. If I was unsure, I’d be referring to the manual or Googling that sh!t.
It’s a huge liability problem if you build in a safety device that is designed intentionally to not provide the suggested safety feature. How would you expect the new homeowner to do their due diligence? The instructions aren’t on the face of the switch, heck, the name of the manufacturer and the model number aren’t on the face of the switch. All the new homeowner sees is that the light is controlled by the switch and there is an air gap switch. All it takes is them not verifying that the switch is functional to put themselves at risk.
And while I doubt that you actually would ask to see the manual for a firearm before using the safety switch, that’s not the issue. You aren’t the one who’s going to sue Inovelli. It’s the person who doesn’t read the manual before using an obvious safety feature that is (or their surviving family members). NEC and UL approval have nothing to do with it.
Aux switches don’t carry the load. These are UL approved which means they are designed to meet safety guidelines.
If the homeowner doesn’t know what they’re looking at or can logically understand the device, then they should hire a professional. This is already written into the manuals.
I’d be willingly to say if the new homeowners haven’t been exposed to a smart switch they’d most likely not even know about the air gap switch. My wife doesn’t know what the tab is for yet she isn’t going to electrocute herself by illogically removing the device.
Inovelli won’t have to worry about being sued. People can try, but it’ll be a waste of their money.
Then why do they have an air gap switch? Nothing about the device says “no load”. From the user side, nothing about the device looks like it doesn’t carry a load, in fact the air gap switch would imply that it does.
then they should hire a professional
To change a lightbulb?
This is already written into the manuals.
You plan on what, taping the manual to the switch?
I’d be willingly to say if the new homeowners haven’t been exposed to a smart switch they’d most likely not even know about the air gap switch.
Air gapped dimmers have been around since the late 80’s at least, though.
she isn’t going to electrocute herself by illogically removing the device
It’s not about removing the device, it’s about changing a lightbulb. The sort of thing people do all the time without thinking about calling an electrician or checking a manual.
Inovelli won’t have to worry about being sued.
Not by you or I. But all it takes is one accident investigation to conclude that the air gap switch was faulty by design and there will be lawyers lined up to take that case.
Um, I dunno . . maybe look to see if the light bulb turned off?
The bulb is burned out, that’s why you’re pulling the air gap switch, so you can safely change the bulb. You can’t tell from the light if the circuit is hot or not because the bulb doesn’t respond either way.
