I have Drop screen that comes down from the ceiling. It is normally controlled by a standard three way switch. Switch down, screen comes down and stops at lower limit, switch up. screen rolls back up into the ceiling and stops when it hits limit switch.
I have swapped out the standard three way with a Blue 2-1 switch
I configured it for Multi-way (Toggle)
I have a neutral
I’m certain it is wired correctly.
I’m using SmartThings
The switch made the screen come down the first time I pressed it.
It will not go back up.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I don’t know of many projector screens that work off of a normal 3-way switch (e.g. 120V) The ones I’ve seen usually are part of a 12v trigger system and the switches support a dedicated up position and a dedicated down position.
You may be able to wire in a Shelly relay and use scense, but I’m not sure this is going to work how you’re expecting it to work. I very well could be wrong as this is the first implementation I’ve seen someone trying to use a 2-1 for a projector screen.
Hopefully a AV perosn will chime in.
Agree w/ @harjms. From your description, it doesn’t sound as if you have standard 3-way switch. If it’s always a press down from EITHER switch to lower the screen, and always a press up from EITHER switch to raise the screen, that sounds like a 3 postition switch (up > up, down > down and middle > stop), commonly used with low voltage mechanisms.
Can you post the wiring diagram for the trigger mechanism?
Edit: How many switches to you have? Is this a 3-way switch LEG or a 2-way that uses a single 3-way switch?
From your description, there are 2 wires that you alternately connect 120V to, one raises it and one lowers it.
In the configuration you set the internal relay switches on paddle on-off to change the connection between the traveler screw and the load screw. The problem is that in one position the dimmer circuit is off and not powering the screw (likely traveler).
I don’t think there is a solution. In theory, 3-way dumb mode and smart bulb mode would, but I’m fairly certain they will not work together.
Thanks for the responses.
A little more background/information/specification.
This projector screen is circa 2000. (think “old school high tech board room”)
There is only one switch in the original configuration and it is definitely a single three way switch (120V)
I haven’t proven it out but I think PJF’s description of
there are 2 wires that you alternately connect 120V to, one raises it and one lowers it.
Got it. Thanks for clarifying.
I don’t think an Inovelli used alone will work. However, I think you can combine it with a relay to mimic the 3-way switch functionality.
A 3-way switch connects the common terminal and one of the traveler terminals in one position, and the common and the other traveler terminal in the other position. Find a relay that when energized connects the common and one terminal and when not energized, connects the common and another terminal. Then connect that relay to the Inovelli configured as an on-off to energize and de-energize the relay.
You’ll need a relay with a coil rated for 120V and contacts rated for whatever you are currently switching with the existing 3-way switch.
I think you can do this with a multi relay that supports interlocking (example: Zooz 700 Series Z-Wave Plus S2 MultiRelay ZEN16 VER. 2.0 with 3 Dry Co - The Smartest House)
You should be able to wire that with relay one connected to the common and the wire that goes up, relay 2 connecting the common and the wire that goes down. Set param 24 to 1 so that it enables interlocking mode. From your controller, you’d then have two relays and turning on relay 1 would make it go up and turning on relay 2 would make it go down.
This won’t fit in a switch box though.
Thanks for the pointers folks! I’m going to try the relay method and see what happens.