- What type of bulb do you have connected to the switch (LED, CFL, Halogen, etc)? 6 LED BR30
- What is the approximate Load Wattage? 6 bulbx x 13W each = 78W
- Bonus Points: Make/Model of your bulb(s)? Feit 13 Watt BR30 LED Dimmable Flood Light Bulb
- Switch Setup (ie: Single-Pole, 3-Way, 4-Way, etc)? 3-Way with dumb switch
- AC Power Type: Neutral or Non-Neutral Setup? Neutral
FYI, I got another LZW31 dimmer and installed it in a very similar arrangement to the one I talked about in the first reply–no problems at all. Traditional 3-way switch, neutral, EXCEPT only one FEIT 60-watt bulbs and 3 no-name LED floods from a school fund-raiser.
- What type of bulb do you have connected to the switch (LED, CFL, Halogen, etc)?
LED
- What is the approximate Load Wattage?
24W going by the wattage of the bulbs.
The LZW31-SN reports 20W.
- Bonus Points: Make/Model of your bulb(s)?
Philips, part number 9290002580
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-LED-Dimmable-BR40-Light/dp/B00JQXMTRO
- Switch Setup (ie: Single-Pole, 3-Way, 4-Way, etc)?
3-Way Toggle. The wiring diagram is the “3-way installation (Line/Load in Separate Boxes)” diagram. That’s at the bottom of page 6 in the installation guide that came with the LZW31-SN.
- AC Power Type: Neutral or Non-Neutral Setup?
Neutral
Dead ends:
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I’ve set parameter 8 to 0 manually, even though 0 is the default. This reduced the occurrence of the problem from nearly 100% to about 10%.
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I’ve excluded the switch, reset it to factory default, and reincluded it. For a while the problem did not happen, but it eventually came back. It happens maybe 5% of the time now.
Have the LZ31 installed with the relay disabled controlling 4 HUE BR30 RGBW bulbs
- What type of bulb do you have connected to the switch: Relay disabled for smart bulb configuration, 4 HUE BR30 Color bulbs
- What is the approximate Load Wattage? - 9W x 4 bulbs = 36W
- Bonus Points: Make/Model of your bulb(s)? Philips Hue BR30 color
- Switch Setup (ie: Single-Pole, 3-Way, 4-Way, etc)? Single pole with relay disabled
- AC Power Type: Neutral or Non-Neutral Setup? Neutral.
[/quote]
- What type of bulb do you have connected to the switch (LED, CFL, Halogen, etc)? 16 LED
- What is the approximate Load Wattage? 64W
- Bonus Points: Make/Model of your bulb(s)? Hizashi 90+ CRI LED Candelabra Bulb
- Switch Setup (ie: Single-Pole, 3-Way, 4-Way, etc)? 3-Way with dumb switch
- AC Power Type: Neutral or Non-Neutral Setup? Neutral
In case it matters, All the individual dimmers I used work fine, this is one from the Holiday box set.
Second switch out of that Holiday box has same issue. I unpaired and repaired both and set max dim at 85 and its been OK for an hour.
Second switch controls 2 BR30 9w LED Phillips
I have two LZW-31 and both are having the shutoff issue.
I’m having the issue where the dimmer will come on from 0 to full brightness, and then trip off in about 1-2 seconds. When it’s happening, it will happen multiple times in a row until I throw the dumb switch to the other direction.
I’m using Home Assistant 0.103.2 with the OpenZWave 1.4 configs shared by akguwabr.
Parameter 21 is set to “Neutral”
Parameter 22 is set to “3 way toggle”
Yesterday my wife was complaining about the newfangled technology taking too long, so I set the ramp rate to 0. I don’t think I’ve had the problem since, but if I do I will try the 80% trick.
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What type of bulb do you have connected to the switch (LED, CFL, Halogen, etc)?
LED
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What is the approximate Load Wattage?
7 Watts per bulb according to manufacturer’s specs. 4 bulbs on one dimmer (28w), 2 on the other (14w). Setup in recessed fixtures.
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Bonus Points: Make/Model of your bulb(s)?
Philips 471177 according to Home Depot’s site. Here’s the UL info.
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Switch Setup (ie: Single-Pole, 3-Way, 4-Way, etc)?
3 way. the 4 can circult is a line & load in same box setup, the 2 can circuit is line and load in separate boxes. The dimmers are in the same triple box with a Insteon SwitchLinc Dimmer.
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AC Power Type: Neutral or Non-Neutral Setup?
Neutral
Edit: The wife got home before me and tried to turn the lights on, and they would not stay on. When I got home I set the dimmers to 80% max. So far so good… but it’s only been a few hours and a few on/off cycles.
Adding my own story to the mix. Same issue with the dimmer shutting off after some time when power is going through the traveler, but not through the load wire. Unique to me is that I have installed about 12 dimmers around the house, in single pole, 3-way and 4-way configs. All are driving LED loads and all are connected to dumb switches.
The issue so far only occurs on 2-3 of them and not the whole set. The dimmers all came out of the holiday packs.
I am currently testing the 80% fix identified earlier to see if that resolves the issue
- What type of bulb do you have connected to the switch (LED, CFL, Halogen, etc)? LED
- What is the approximate Load Wattage? 43W, 62W, 57W (as reported by dimmers)
- Bonus Points: Make/Model of your bulb(s)? TCP LED model L7R0D2527K 7.5W Listed rating
- Switch Setup (ie: Single-Pole, 3-Way, 4-Way, etc)? 3 / 4 way
- AC Power Type: Neutral or Non-Neutral Setup? Neutral
1 Like
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What type of bulb do you have connected to the switch (LED, CFL, Halogen, etc)?
LED -
What is the approximate Load Wattage?
27W, also the lowest I have on any of the switches in my house -
Bonus Points: Make/Model of your bulb(s)?
Philips LED 474312 BR30 Dimmable -
Switch Setup (ie: Single-Pole, 3-Way, 4-Way, etc)?
3-way, dumb -
AC Power Type: Neutral or Non-Neutral Setup?
Neutral
Happens only in one position of the dumb switch, no issue when dimming to 80% (not bright enough though…)
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What type of bulb do you have connected to the switch (LED, CFL, Halogen, etc)?
Philips BR30 LED 9.5w, SKU: 452417 - Qty: 4 -
What is the approximate Load Wattage?
38W -
Bonus Points: Make/Model of your bulb(s)?
Philips 452417 -
Switch Setup (ie: Single-Pole, 3-Way, 4-Way, etc)?
4-pole with dumb switches. Line/Load in same box -
AC Power Type: Neutral or Non-Neutral Setup?
Neutral -
Notes:
Load stays on in most instances; however, when the dumb switches are flipped a certain way, the switch will shut off and click the relay. I can then turn the lights back on by flipping the dumb switch the other direction and the load will stay on. If I send the z-wave command to turn on the lights when the dumb switches are in the same configuration that caused the shut off, the load stays on.
EDIT: I forgot to mention that I put three different red dimmers out of my holiday pack in this circuit to verify that it wasn’t a bad unit.
Having the same issue here with the red series dimmer from the holiday pack.
- What type of bulb do you have connected to the switch? 4 x LED BR30 (Philps with warm glow) + 1 incandescent.
- What is the approximate Load Wattage? 90W
- Switch Setup? 3-way, dumb switch, neutral, line & load same box.
- AC Power Type: Neutral
My set up had been working fine for 5 days without issue. My wife also complained about slow ramp rate and some other settings so I changed some default settings…which is when the problems seem to have started. I think it’s interesting that some have noted the issues happening with dimmers from the holiday set. I’ve got 2 left from that set and another 2 from my pre+order shipment…I will so some swapping and testing this weekend.
- What type of bulb do you have connected to the switch (LED, CFL, Halogen, etc)? LED
- What is the approximate Load Wattage? 4.5w
- Bonus Points: Make/Model of your bulb(s)? Philips 40-Watt Equivalent T10 Dimmable Vintage Glass Edison LED Light Bulb Amber Warm White (2000K)
- Switch Setup (ie: Single-Pole, 3-Way, 4-Way, etc)?
Single pole - AC Power Type: Neutral or Non-Neutral Setup?
Neutral set up
Notes: there are two spots in the house where this is happening. Both the same information.
What type of bulb do you have connected to the switch (LED, CFL, Halogen, etc)?
I have 5 total - 1 LED and 4 incandescent (R20). My builder installed 5 incandescent bulbs. One burnt out and I replaced it with an LED can light.
What is the approximate Load Wattage?
When I first installed the LZW31-SN, the log on my Hubitat hub showed about 180W total when on at max brightness. Now (see notes below), after things are working, it shows about 156W
Bonus Points: Make/Model of your bulb(s)?
Unbranded incandescent and ecosmart 50W-equivalent soft white dimmable R20
Switch Setup (ie: Single-Pole, 3-Way, 4-Way, etc)?
4-way. One LZW31-SN replaced one out of the 3 total dumb switches.
AC Power Type: Neutral or Non-Neutral Setup?
Neutral
Notes:
- I have not removed any heatsink tabs.
- In your wiring docs, my setup matches the first diagram under 4-WAY INSTALLATION (DUMB SWITCH) NEUTRAL WIRE REQUIRED at the top of page 8, except the load is 5xR20 ceiling can lights instead of one.
- initially my Hubitat logs showed ~180W load, just using it as an on-off switch (i.e. max brightness)
- it switched off automatically after a few seconds, but it had something to do with the permutations of other switches; it wasn’t always predictable. I never had to wait more than 5-10 seconds for this to happen.
- I followed the forum suggestions to set the max brightness to 80% and then things seemed stable. I flipped the other switches and things worked as expected.
- Then I increased to 82%, 85%, 95% and then the max value of 99. No issues! It’s been stable in the past week since I received and installed this.
- Power consumption now shows ~ 159W max, with 99 as the max dimmer value. I think the lights are slightly dimmed (i.e. not as bright as they were before), but I’m not sure without being able to return to the previous state easily (when I first installed the switch).
I suspect there’s some bug involving the first time setting of the dimmer max brightness. Maybe the internal factory default state is not whatever the value of 99 maps to and that somehow contributes to this?
Perhaps I should try a factory reset to try and reproduce this?
1 x LED
9 watts
1x EcoSmart A810SS-Q1D-04
3 way with dumb switch
Neutral
4 Brand new “unboxed” LZW31-SN purchased directly from Inovelli. Only connected 2 so far. One single-pole and one 3-way. Single-pole seems to be fully operational so far.
Like others, the 3-way setup is shutting off within a few seconds after setting to maximum brightness.
- What type of bulb do you have connected to the switch (LED, CFL, Halogen, etc)? 3 x Incandescent and 1 x Halogen (I know)
- What is the approximate Load Wattage? switch reports 230W
- Bonus Points: Make/Model of your bulb(s)? sorry, unknown
- Switch Setup (ie: Single-Pole, 3-Way, 4-Way, etc)? 3-way
- AC Power Type: Neutral or Non-Neutral Setup? Neutral
Also…
- Wired exactly as shown in the “3-Way Installation” shown on page 6 here.
- Parameter 21 = 1
- Paramater 22 = 1
As some others have mentioned, with the dummy switch set to one of the 2 positions, it seems to operate at full brightness without any issues. Set the dummy switch the other way, and it “trips” before full brightness.
I installed another LZW31-SN today in a 3-way configuration. While at first I was shocked that it stayed on at full brightness, it shut off after about 5 minutes. Here is the configuration for this switch:
- What type of bulb do you have connected to the switch (LED, CFL, Halogen, etc)? 1x Incandescent and 2 x LED
- What is the approximate Load Wattage? switch reports 69.6W
- Bonus Points: Make/Model of your bulb(s)? sorry, unknown
- Switch Setup (ie: Single-Pole, 3-Way, 4-Way, etc)? 3-way
- AC Power Type: Neutral or Non-Neutral Setup? Neutral
- What type of bulb do you have connected to the switch (LED, CFL, Halogen, etc)? 4x13w LED
- What is the approximate Load Wattage? switch reports 48W
- Bonus Points: Make/Model of your bulb(s)? Philips 9290002197
- Switch Setup (ie: Single-Pole, 3-Way, 4-Way, etc)? Single Pole
- AC Power Type: Neutral or Non-Neutral Setup? Neutral
I have the issue identical in description to what others, e.g. in “silencery”'s post.
I have 8 LZW31-SN. 4 in single pole mode, 4 in 3-way with dumb switch.
I’m pretty sure it’s not a defective LZW31-SN switch issue. Here is why…
I only have turn-off issue at one 3-way switch; 3 other 3-ways work fine.
At the problem location (switch)… I swapped dumb switches - no change, same turn off issue at the “problem location”.
I swapped the “problem location LZW switch” with "a “working location LZW switch” - the switch from a “problem location” now works fine at “working location”; while the working LZW switch, now in “problem location” is shutting off. In short, the issue is environmental, location/installation specific.
All 4 3way locations are wired identically, “classic” style. All have Neutral. I’m an electrical engineer, I double checked all wires in all locations… I’m quite sure wiring is indeed the same and correct (yes, it’s possible there is a wiring mistake, yet it’s not very likely)
Settings in all 4 3way locations: neutral, 3 way with dumb switch, min dimmer 35%
Using openHAB, however this does not seem material because I also reset the switch to factory, then manually set parameters 21 and 22 - same exact result.
I can reproduce the issue very consistently when both below are true:
- dumb switch is in 1 particular position (no issue when dumb switch is in another position); and
- LZW is above 80% (no issue if LZW is dimmed below 80%)
Here is a description of the “problem location”:
Load is 4 65W incandescent flood bulbs (260W total). Ceiling recessed cans. I tried with 2 bulbs - same issue. For the record… all “working 3way locations” have LEDs, wattage varies, all around 20 something. I hear you’re asking "did you try all LEDs in “problem location” - no, ran out of time (spend nearly a day experimenting, rewiring, rechecking, making videos), I can, pls lmk.
Video: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hhvHySq7OhyCxwdsodv-9IUle5jlbn4N
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1C40Qip2WcXtUebnBJSnhJHgW7usfwPdH
Finally, it seems unlikely it’s a heating issue… the switch shuts off too quickly after it’s turned on. and it handles 260W for long time just fine (I mentioned - no issues working when dumb switch is in one particular position), not hot to touch.
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EricM posted in this thread that it may be a firmware issue. Not sure if you had read that post or not.
It’s very nice of you @jtronicus to share the pointer, I missed that post.
I figure it may still be helpful to share my findings, if for no other reason but to add to test cases (wink-wink) once there is a fix. I’m [pretty] sure it’s not wiring or load, then must be firmware or interference (I’m guessing they are using pulsing for signaling which may get distorted due to other wiring nearby), or perhaps combination of both (tolerances in reading signal in firmware?). Anywho, a total speculation, I trust they will figure and I hope it’s firmware and not hardware. My role is to report.
Sentimental: Totally appreciate the thought that vent into the design of the switch and love the product. Even though it’s a bit of a pain in the … to use version 1 and take advantage of everything it can do. Well worth it
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Thank you for the info. It helps confirm what we have been seeing in other cases. There is a detection method that is used to determine if a 3-way dumb switch is toggled that is creating false positives when the dimmer is at a higher percentage (in certain environments). The firmware engineers are working on a solution, but the current work around is to set the maximum level to 80 or 90%.