Fan/Light Neutral Jumper

Super psyched to get my pre order Fan/Light (Project Hurricane) today! For anyone that’s looked at the instructions… Just wondering why the neutral Jumper? Diagram shows both line/load of the hot just both going to the hot terminal of the controller. I know electrically, there’s no reason not to just do the same with the neutral. I’m guessing it’s just to make it sort of wire like a normal switch? Since there would be already be two neutrals under a wire nut in the box, just add a third instead of undoing the nut and screwing both down into the switch? There’s not some dumb electrical code reason why the neutral needs a pigtail but the hot doesn’t, right?

For context for those not following this project… The “switch” is really a zwave connected wireless controller for a canopy module where the real switching is done. So the controller needs constant power (with neutral) and the previously switched wire that runs to the canopy also needs constant power.

Presuming that you have power to the switch box, then to the fan: Despite the fact that there is a controller in the canopy, there is still a smart switch in the box that needs power, hence the hot AND the neutral to the switch. So you’ll pigtail a neutral to a switch. You can probably leave the neutral to the fan in the neutral bundle, even though the wiring diagram has it connected via the switch.

Yea…I know they both need power :-). Sorry… Guess I was long winded and unclear. Only question was if there’s some specific reason the instructions say to pigtail vs simply putting both neutrals under the screw on the switch like they do with the hot.

@pbennett - Sometimes the gang box will feed other switches/outlets from there and would not be able to tie 3+ neutrals together from the back of the switch. There’s nothing wrong with what you’re proposing, but it’s a way to provide a way for the homeowner to connect to the neutral.

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Yep, it doesn’t matter which way you do it as long as the fan and the switch get a neutral.

Yea… That make sense now… If there’s an additional junction in the box, there must already be a hot jumper there to get to the existing dumb switch but the neutral wouldn’t have that. By just drawing the diagram with a pigtail they covered both cases. Makes sense