LED leakage? or is it? Strange behavior. Single pole, neutral, Home Assistant

I set mine up in a single-pole configuration with a neutral wire connected. But when the switch is ‘off’ the LED overhead lights are still on (dim, but definitely on). I saw that this was a pretty common issue, and you still need the bypass even in a neutral configuration. Seems like an issue from the get-go…

Well interestingly enough, a week later I was tinkering with another switch in my house (Shelly dimmer2 with a pushbutton dumb switch), and it required that I shut the breaker off to those lights. This breaker also powered the lights/switch where I had the inovelli red dimmer. So after tinkering with the Shelly Dimmer2, I power back up the circuit, and BAM! the inovelli dimmer was working correctly! Including turning all the way off! So for the rest of the day I was pleased that I might not need the bypass for all the other switches I ordered.

But this morning I woke up to find that the switch was still “off”, but the lights were on. Literally nothing changed overnight. I didn’t lose power… I didn’t reboot HA, I didn’t do anything.

Now, I can’t get the physical switch to do anything. It turns on/off, but the lights don’t actually respond. Just the LED on the switch itself. Generally there is some strange lag/sluggishness with the responsiveness of the switch in both the physical switch and through Home Assistant.

After a little bit of frustration, I decided to attempt to recreate my issues. So I flipped the breaker, and lo-and-behold: the lights were able to go all the way off. I then decided to play with the switch to see how well it responded (I am still a bit confused with the settings of the device, so the reaction speeds of dimming/on/off/etc had made me frustrated from before.) After about 5 mins of flipping the switch on/off, dimming from the switch, and from HA, the switch suddenly was unable to turn the lights all the way off.

Not sure what is causing this, but it seems as though the hardware is capable of cutting power to the lights, but I don’t know how to make it stay that way.

How can I troubleshoot this further? I really don’t want to pay $15 more for each switch I intend to install. Especially when I paid to have neutral wires installed in my switchboxes during our renovation :stuck_out_tongue:

Try a different light (like an incandescent) and see if the switch begins behaving normally.

The lights are built in LEDs, not bulbs.

Thanks for the tip. After posting this question to the forum I reset the breaker to see how long it takes for the switch to revert to it’s “broken” state, and this morning it is still working as intended.

There’s many posts that had similar issues. For me, my cheap G6 bulbs kept dim when off. I installed the bypass even though I had a neutral setup. It cured my issue.

Yeah, I’ve seen all the related issues. Seems to me that this is not a hardware issue, because I was able to get the lights to work in the desire fashion.

I bought a bypass, but adding $15 to every switch really seems like a pretty big downside of these switches. And honestly, I’m already running pretty short on space in my gang boxes, so these bypasses are going to be tough to fit in there!

Thanks for taking the time. Hopefully someone from Inovelli will see this, and take note.

they go in one of the fixtures, not the boxes typically

Correct. You results may vary. Unless you’re using the same LED in each circuit, you may only need a few. One bypass per lighting circuit, not each light. I only had to buy one so it was reasonable to me vs. buying/trying/returning multiple sets of LEDs.

Also make sure you set up the switch correctly for neutral in the parameters. Set it to non neutral, save and back to neutral configuration.

Yeah, but my lights are can lights installed in the attic, and my attic is full of asbestos, so I don’t go up there unless absolutely necessary. So I’m attempting to install any additional hardware in the boxes.

So, after the last hard-reboot on the circuit breaker, I haven’t had the switch revert to the old behavior. So I guess I’m just going to have to hope this works for the other 5 switches… Not a very satisfying answer, but it’s working now, and I am no stranger to the tinkering mode that I have to enter every time I add or change hardware.

Don’t blame ya there.