Power config is Breaker → Line on switch, Load on switch → Lights, Lights → Neutral
The switch has power and I am able to configure the parameters via the config button.
I have set parameter 12 to 0 (held config for 10 seconds, turned yellow, rapidly pressed config 12 times, pressed paddle down, held config for another 10 seconds and confirmed cyan)
Are you trying to set the switch/power type? There is a difference in parameter numbers between the Black and the Red series. For the Red, you want to set parameters 21 and 22.
(page 10)
Edit:
I just noticed that your title says “Non-neutral” yet your description says power to the box with the Inovelli from the breaker. If you have power from the breaker, then you have a neutral configuration and presumably have a neutral connected to the Inovelli dimmer. Is there a neutral connected to the dimmer?
Just because you have a constant hot to the box doesn’t necessarily mean that the power is coming from the breaker. If you have a hot in the box and no neutral, then power is coming from the light, not the breaker and hence no neutral.
Obviously, this will affect your parameter settings.
I do not have a neutral in my wall box. As such i would think i would be “Single Pole, non-Neutral”. I have 21 and 22 both set to zero (assumed) via 12 and 13 on the config button by pressing the paddle down.
Your drawing is not correct, but the concept is the same. It is a non-neutral single-pole configuration.
Make sure that the wire that has the constant hot is connected to the line. (Confirmed with a meter as you can’t go by color.) Use the incandescent bulb(s) until this is working.
You are correct that 21 and 22 should be “0”. Some have posted here that settings may not stick, so you can try changing away from “0” and then putting it back.
Yes, it is effectively that drawing without the Bypass Module. I will try the following tonight:
Confirm that the Hot is connected to Line. It is possible that I have a reverse polarity wiring setup and i will need to correct that. I will verify with a multimeter tonight.
Confirm my settings by switching away from 0 and changing back.
You also might try setting Parameters 21 and 22 again. Others have reported they don’t always “take” on the 1st try.
If you have a hub, it might be better to set these parameters from the hub.
As for reverse polarity, AC current has no polarity (or more correctly the polarity changes 60 times a second). In your case it doesn’t matter if you reverse Line and Load.
Be aware having Line and Load reversed is important in a 3-Way configuration and must be correct.
The problem is that if the polarity is reversed that would mean that the switch is downstream of the neutral of the light. I suspect that could be the cause. Maybe it still doesn’t matter. My hub is Home Assistant, so i don’t believe i can edit the parameters via the hub but i will try resetting them again from the config button.
If you have no neutral at the switch, then the switch is definitely “downstream” of the light. No electrician would ever send 1 power wire to the box with the switch while sending the neutral to the box with the light. The diagram that @Bry posted is most likely what you’re trying to describe.
There’s a lot of guessing and assuming in this post and that’s not usually the best course of action when it comes to electricity. You should go out and invest in a meter and take some pictures of your wiring and post those up so we can properly help you.
I’m going to hit it with my multimeter when i get home tonight. My diagrams suck. When i say reversed polarity, i’m basically saying the hot and the neutral are flip-flopped at the bulb. Which is what my diagram shows, just without the wire nuts and romex showed.
