I think someone posted previously about one they made… Could see if someone could make you one, but I agree it was a stretch.
I believe that the antenna that is being used with the product is really designed to work in open air, basically hanging like a garage door opener antenna, nothing around it. It’s length is also critical, as it needs to be related to the wavelength of the 2.4GHz. If it touches metal, it messes with the effective length. If you put any metal around the antenna, you will detune the antenna, making it less effective. The range on this product isn’t very far to begin with, if you detune the antenna with metal, it will get shorter. Having the end of the antenna sticking out of a hole, isn’t going to help you very much. The problem probably isn’t that the wifi is to strong, it is probably fine, it is just that the canopy, due to the hidden antenna, is effectively whispering. I am not sure what radio is being used, but hopefully it is a frequency hopper, meaning, it finds free frequencies and uses them. If the antenna is messed up, those algorithms may not pick the right frequencies and get stomped on by other transmitters. Also, because the canopy is whispering, the other well-behaving frequency hoppers in your house won’t “see” the fan and avoid it’s frequencies, stomping all over them with their robust signals…
Long story short, need the antenna to work, then everything gets easier. I had problems, took off the cover,and hung the antenna, everything is fine. Now, I need to figure out what to do next. Maybe doubling the antenna length and hanging it out of the canopy will work. The FCC wouldn’t like it, but my fan may.
Just hit the dollar stores for a suitably-sized plastic bowl, and use a hole saw to make a down rod opening through the bottom…
[tldr; exposing the antenna works for me] I’ve only installed one of my LZW36s and I was getting disconnects around 6 to 8 hours; it never lasted longer than that. Flipping the breaker always restored the connection but after disabling reporting the switch and module would not pair at all. When the module started the pairing process and the lights were fading on and off I’d get a green confirmation on the switch, but module stayed in pairing mode and commands to turn the fan or light on and off wouldn’t get any reaction from the module.
After pulling my antenna out of the housing so it’s visible the switch and module automatically paired and I haven’t had any issues in the last 10 days. Reporting has been on for the last 9.
Was there a final decision on whether the firmware was necessary? I’ve read all 291 comments and I’ve been following closely for a couple of weeks now, but haven’t seen anything.
Everything I’ve seen makes it seem like people are much happier with the switch after updating the firmware. I have one LZW36 installed that I haven’t had any issues with but I updated it’s firmware last night using @bcopeland new version of the Z-Wave Firmware Updater for Hubitat and it’s still working perfectly.
I updated mine just about a week ago and have not had any problems since!!!
Conversely! I haven’t updated mine yet - just exposing the antenna got it working nicely. And if it ain’t broke…
(Though EricM has mentioned an upcoming fan child device handler - and at that point I’ll probably redo the config, and include the new firmware)
does anyone think there is going to be a official and non-beta FW update coming soon?
Where can I find URL to use on Hubitat to update my firmware?
Here is the latest one I am aware of:
I thought I was working good until installed the cover on the fan (letting the antenna hang out about 2 inches). Previously, I just let the cover off and the antenna hang. Now, about every hour my lights go from 30% dim (which I have it set for), to full brightness, for about a second, then back. It almost seems like there is some some type of contention (hardware or software), but I can’t tell. I don’t see anything in the history. Maybe the connection to the fan is dropping and going back to some default, I don’t know. Has anyone seen this?
ok, dropping the cover didn’t fix it,
The plot thickens… It MAY not be doing the flicker with an incandescent bulb. More testing is needed. I was using some Ecosmart Dimmable 1720ZF LED bulbs. Testing a 40W fridge bulb now.
More evidence for a weak Switch/Canopy module connection (or maybe just unreasonable expectations!) - I just installed another LZW36, ~15ft separation, with a drywall/2x4 corner between, antenna exposed - wouldn’t pair (fan lights continued blinking, canopy pairing on the switch sometimes said green, sometimes red - but no control in either case).
Moved the switch closer (rather fortunate to have an available switch position), ~8ft separation, nothing between - no re-pairing needed, just connected & works fine.
Did anyone else lose their ST power reporting with the latest firmware update? For some reason my 2 other units are working perfectly but my 1.34 firmware version isn’t reporting anymore (it’s 0 on both values).
Confirmed power/energy reports are set at defaults and even toggled to 0 then back to default values then cleared then set again:
Edit: in the logs there are no power or energy events. Weird.
Bump, if not I’ll just exclude and start from scratch.
Mine seem to be working fine. One was updated with the Aeotec controller as the primary, the other with it as the secondary to SmartThing (much slower). One has been running with energy monitoring enabled, the other disabled (but just re-enabled) - both now reporting. Events visible in the SmartThings DEV IDE, and the new Android app.
In your Raw Description in IDE, is there basically all 0’s like in this article?
Sounds like exclude/include is the answer per that thread. Thanks!
Edit: Also, I will begin looking in support articles more. You guys have done a really good job establishing a base of important ones, and I need to search there first. Thanks for pointing this one out this time though!
Lol, no worries – we try to capture as much as we can
Ok so I excluded, included and it came in as a generic dimmer so I excluded, reset, and included and it came back in just fine with IDs and everything but still no energy or power reporting of any kind.
Not sure what’s up but might roll back driver and see if that fixes it as I had some connection issues but it was reporting energy/power.