Switch Wigged out?

I have a new (as of yesterday) Red Series dimmer.

It is in a 3-gang box, next to some GE Enbrighten S2 dimmers.

Because this was intended to be an “aux” switch for the light (I mostly wanted the LED there), it has no load connected.

I’ve not sorted out the associations to make that work right yet plus am having severe issues with the hub since I started adding these things (not yet sure why, but the hub started throwing “null exception” errors and locking up).

So, today, I went to adjust the neighboring GE dimmer and suddenly the Inovelli was started super-fast blinking red (almost like fluttering–not the normal “Fast Blink”). and became non-responsive.

I pulled the airgap for a moment and that didn’t’ seem to help–pulled it again for a bit longer and the switch did it’s normal “reboot colors”–but now it isn’t showing the normal blue color (acts like it isn’t responding at all). I pulled the air gap again and it again when through the LED colors at start up then went dark–and no matter what I push, stays dark.

What happened?

Is the neutral connected to this switch? I assume the other side of the switch is another Inovelli, correct?


Parm 12=15
Assoc Group 4 = D6
Assoc Group 3 = D6

It does not seem to be doing anything when I send a command from the hub (e.g., “On”)–the swtich doesn’t change.

This switch has a neutral, line, and ground connected to it–nothing on the load or traveler.

You setup the switch as neutral (parameter 21 to neutral)?

I thought I had–I set it again.

But, it now isn’t responding to button presses, info from the hub, etc.

It has power (because it blinks the LEDs when it powers up)–but is otherwise now non-responsive.

I would recommend performing exclusion/factory reset and try including to your hub again. It seems like it’s not part of the network since the LEDs are weird. You should be able to have no load on these switches (assuming neutral is used).

Triple pressing the config button does nothing. How can I exclude it if it is non-responsive.

The hub should have zero impact on local operations (e.g., pushing the paddles/config button).

Good point. Hold config button for 20+ seconds. If nothing, you may have a defective switch. Either the button is broke or something else.

Hopefully, @Eric_Inovelli or @EricM_Inovelli will reply.

I held the config button for 20-30 sec. nada.

Pulled the air gap and pushed it in–started erratic red flashing. Pulled & pushed again–it blinked thru colors and went dark.

Hmmmm… yeah this one seems defective. The only thing I can think of is maybe the wiring is loose in the back? Like one of the wires is popping out and back in (or a connection is barely touching) causing it to wig out.

If you’ve verified the wiring at the back is tight, then we can swap this out for you – very sorry :frowning:

What is the process for doing that? I hate to get into that 3-gang box–but I can take a look (I might just hook up my GE Aux switch now)–then power it up outside the box with a temp plug to make sure it’s wonky then.

@Eric_Inovelli Today has been one hella weird day for my hub!

After trying to add the 4 new devices, my hub wonked out horribly (something was throwing null exception pointers all over). Then, that one dimmer of yours wasn’t working right.

So, today, I did a “soft reset” and restored the database. That seemed to make the null exceptions go away–and I finished the rule work for the new devices.

Then, I notice I was having issues with my z-wave triggered events not triggering–poking around briefly, they started working again.

I also, earlier, undid some of the associations related to your dimmer.

Then, after sending some LED indicator settings, I notice your switch suddenly was responding (and, even dimming the associated light).

Really weird.


I was watching as I had a rule turn off all my lights. About the time it the switches in that box with the Red Series Dimmer turned off, I saw the Red Series Dimmer start that “red flickering” stuff again–then the LED panel went dead.

I guess I’ll check the ground wire and stuff but, somehow or another, I think that thing has something that’s ultrasensitive to EMF or other voltage changes.

Yeah that is really weird. I’ve never seen that on my end and I have a ton of switches in the same gang-box, but of course, I’d like to understand what you’re seeing.

@EricM_Inovelli – have you ever seen this before?

I had left it “air gapped” for a while.

Then a few minutes ago, I popped the air gap closed.

It started up normally and went to the expected blue dimmer strip.

I ran the neighboring GE S2 Enbrighten light switch up and down–and the Inovelli went dark the crashed and rebooted (went through the start up LED sequence).

Pretty clearly, there’s some sort of EMF/Electrical noise issue freaking it out. I’ve not yet gotten back into that box, but plan to before too long.

Ok, keep us posted – I’ve seen a few posts here that talk about this, so if we have to take a deep dive into trying to replicate this issue, I’d love to do so!

Other than checking the firmness of the wiring, anything else I should check?

@Eric_Inovelli @EricM_Inovelli

Is there anything beyond checking the wire “tightness” that you’d like me to do?


If that doesn’t work, perhaps take it out of that location and test it while not in a gang box if possible. I sometimes use a computer power cable with the wires stripped and wired up to the device.

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I’m on vacation atm, but had a thought. I might try putting the switch that’s wigging out into a single gang box somewhere else.

Temporarily, at least, using a GE Aux switch where it was.

That should give a bit of a better idea about whether the switch is flaky on its own or being bothered by noisy neighbors.