Trying to use Red Series Dimmer as on/off switch

Red Series Dimmer (LZW31-SN),
Non-Neutral
Single Pole
FYI, ground currently not connected due to too short of a wire, will be attaching that soon.

Hello I just wired up my first switch, the Red Series Dimmer. My goal is to use it as an on/off switch in a location where I don’t have a neutral (separate garage).

I have wired up the switch and connected it to my Ring Alarm Hub. I can access and turn on/off the switch. My problem/question is that I have it connected to a Ring Floodlight camera, and it’s not turning on. I assume this is because the load is less than 25W. I have read that the load for the floodlight is 24W.

All this being said, is it likely that if I wire in a bypass behind the floodlight (one side on load, one on line) that it will then have the needed power to turn the floodlight on and off?

Thanks so much in advance.

Welcome to the community :slight_smile:

Can you clarify “one side on load one on line”. The function of the bypass it to supply current for the dimmer switch when the dimmer switch has no neutral. So the bypass must be connected between the load and neutral.

Thank you. I do not have a neutral behind the switch. I will need to wire the bypass to the neutral and load. Got it.

Should this work for on off of the ring floodlight?

Also I noticed when i hit the switch it shows red, green, blue, and I don’t get any audible click. Not enough power going to the switch?

You mentioned earlier that the neutral is a short wire and needs some extension to connect to the dimmer. I recommend you connect the neutral as it is a more robust configuration.

Should this work for on off of the ring floodlight?

Sorry I’m not familiar with the Ring floodlight.

Also I noticed when i hit the switch it shows red, green, blue, and I don’t get any audible click. Not enough power going to the switch?

Likely but not positive.

@nismos14 If were talking about Ring Floodlight, then I’d say no. If you cut power to the Ring, it’ll shutoff and won’t record. I have a V2 beta device installed and it only has power for whole system, not to turn on/off lights but keep camera powered on.

The ground is too short, there is no neutral.

@harjms I want to turn it off completely including the camera.

It’ll work just fine then!

@harjms excellent!

For wiring the bypass can I use the existing wire nuts behind then floodlight?

@nismos14 Yes, but I’d double check to see if you need one or not. May not need one with it.

@harjms any ideas on how to trouble shoot it?

@nismos14 - Install the switch and see if the lights stay one. I don’t know if there’ll be any telltale signs with a smart fixture like the Floodlight camera. Normally we’ll see a glow coming from LEDs and know to either change bulbs or install bypass. You may or may not need it.

Edit: So I thought we were talking about an in/off switch, not a dimmer, but looks like I can’t read late at night. Theoretically I think it’ll work at 99% load output as the voltage range of ring is somewhere between 110-240. I’d check voltage output of dimmer to ensure voltage is within range. I’d also disable local control so no one can lower voltage.

@harjms

I had the switch installed and was not able to get it to turn the floodlight on or off. I don’t think it’s getting enough voltage to fully turn on, but I think the switch just doesn’t have enough juice to work itself as well. So my thought is that the bypass is needed to get the switch to function properly.

I’m the only one who will ever use this switch and I plan to use it 100% through app control and never really interact with the switch physically at all.

@nismos14 - Yea, you may need to take a multi meter to determine the voltage. I do know that some people were seeing the switch cutoff when any loads above 80-85%. It might have been contributing to no voltage to power up the ring.

Is the reason you want the dimmer over the on/off because of the LED bar?

@Eric_Inovelli @EricM_Inovelli - Maybe consider using the same front plate and LEDs for the on/off switch as the dimmer. Instead of having the dimmer trace for light level, just have the bar fully lit when on or dim (off) when off. I would be onboard for a full size LED bar for my on/off switches.

@harjms , dimmer over the on/off because of no neutral wire.

ahhh…dang. If you have a multimeter, check the voltage at the light to see what voltage you’re getting at the Ring with it at 99%. Hopefully it’s not getting overloaded and shutting down. If so, it may get fixed with the new BETA firmware, but not 100% sure.

I had a similar result when I was playing around with a TP link switch there, there was some wires behind it that I thought might be neutral but didn’t have a proper voltage tester to find out. I may go back in there armed with that to see. If that is the case and there is a neutral I might be good to go. If not, I think the bypass will resolve the issue.

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You might want to get professional help to diagnose your circuit. If you have a line (i.e. constant hot) to that box, it should have been immediately obvious. The line will be a single Romex with the black typically the hot and the white the neutral. The white will be bundled with at least one other white conductor in the box. The hot conductor will have been connected to the black (common) terminal on the 3-way dumb switch.

You can’t just grab ANY neutral, you need the one that is in the same Romex as the incoming line to insure you are using a neutral from the same branch circuit.

Use a volt meter, not an inductive tester, to test.

If you are unsure, consult with an electrician.

@Bry thank you, I’m not using any dumb switch, this is not a 3 way installation. Single switch being used for single component (floodlight).