Use Z-Wave associations, but not change load of "Source Device"

[joshbgosh10592]

I’m wanting to set up a Z-Wave association to control my kitchen lights, where the switch is in a very inconvient place (to the left of my sink, under a cabinet). I have a very convient existing dumb switch right at the door into the kitchen, but the switch needs to stay on, as the load powers a security camera.
So, can I install two Inovelli dimmers, with the destination switch being the one that actually controls the load and the source switch have it’s internal relay disabled (or set to only turn off at like 10 taps) so the camera will never lose power?

I’m reading through this post, but don’t want to go through all this setup if it won’t work as I hope it will.

[harjms]

@joshbgosh10592

So, can I install two Inovelli dimmers, with the destination switch being the one that actually controls the load and the source switch have it’s internal relay disabled (or set to only turn off at like 10 taps) so the camera will never lose power?

The way I’m reading this is you will not have any problems. Basically, you should be able to bridge the line/neutral (you will need the neutral in box to make it work right) and not attach any load (assuming you’re okay with that). Then you can perform your switch association or scene control with this switch as the origination and the other switch be destination.

How’s the current wiring?

[joshbgosh10592]

@harjms

@joshbgosh10592

So, can I install two Inovelli dimmers, with the destination switch being the one that actually controls the load and the source switch have it’s internal relay disabled (or set to only turn off at like 10 taps) so the camera will never lose power?

The way I’m reading this is you will not have any problems. Basically, you should be able to bridge the line/neutral (you will need the neutral in box to make it work right) and not attach any load (assuming you’re okay with that). Then you can perform your switch association or scene control with this switch as the origination and the other switch be destination.

How’s the current wiring?

I’d strongly like to be able to control the camera via the dimmer (by tapping the switch an obscene amount of times, or pulling the air gap) just in case I need to, or my motion sensing light (also on the same load as the camera) needs reset for any reason.
But, if the internal relay disabling on the source isn’t possible while the dimmer is associated with the destination, I may have to go that way.
Current wiring is that there is a hot and a neutral in each box just bridged (since they’re currently dumb switches), with no load sharing. They only share the line from the breaker box.

[harjms]

@joshbgosh10592

But, if the internal relay disabling on the source isn’t possible while the dimmer is associated with the destination, I may have to go that way.

I think this is a way, just make sure you order a Red Switch; otherwise smart bulb mode (needs firmware upgrade) would work too.