I just ordered a couple of the on/off switches (one black and one red). I installed the switch where there is a current dimmer. I located neutral and line (tested fine) and connected the black load and traveler lines. When I power up the circuit the lights come on and then go off and then on and then off - you get the picture . They cycle about one every 1/2 second. The circuit powers 5 LED can lights that work fine otherwise.
I had a similar issue with a Zooz Zen26 switch but I thought that the flexibility of the Inovelli switch for 3-way lights would make the difference. Oddly, when I use a Zooz Zen22 v.2 dimmer switch and I hardwire the remote switch box so that line (to the lights) is connected to the line from the primary switch, the lights work/dim. I just needed to use a Zigbee accessory switch to remotely (and slowly) turn the lights on/off. The other problem with that setup is that the lights occasionally flicker but annoyingly so. Not sure if that is due to some defect in the Zen22.
@JohnG@Eric_Inovelli I’m also following up on this as I just ran into the exact same issue. LZW30 with a dumb switch as a 3 way. 2 Light fixtures in the middle (2 bulbs each, home depot Eco LED). The moment I put turn the circuit on, the light will go on for a split second, and off, and then on and off. While the light is doing that, the LED on the LZW30 turns green red green red.
I’m pretty sure the wiring is correct. Do I need to get a dimmer instead or an aux? I’d like to avoid aux as I don’t have a neutral on that side.
I really like to get this working so that I can replace all my switches and there are a lot of 3 ways.
I understand that you have lights in the middle, but do you have the line going into one of the switch boxes?
A couple things to try. No sure which Home Depot Eco lights you have. Are these cans? Are they the retrofit cans where the adapter screws into the old can? If so, can you swap the bulbs out for incandescent to test? My suspicion is that LEDs don’t draw sufficient amperage and cause issues. I know that’s not supposed to be with these switches, but I wonder. If incandescent bulbs work, then you could add a bypass.
You can add a Aux at the remote box. I know you said you don’t have a neutral there, but you can. Of the three conductors in the three-wire between the lights and that box, only two conductors are used. One of them is to send the neutral from the light to the box.
and it’s doing the same thing; it controls tear drop halogen lights (total of 6) and they are using halogen bulbs which I’m sure they’d draw quite bit more.
Just a quick update. For the switch with the light in the middle, @Bry’s suggestion of using the Aux worked! Thank you.
I’ve also gotten it to work for the Line/Load in the same box circuit too. It turned out I must have flipped the traveler and the load by accident. I didn’t think it mattered. But the detection is much more accurate.
. They cycle about one every 1/2 second. The circuit powers 5 LED can lights that work fine otherwise.
