4 Way 1 switch showing no signs of power, all inovelli switches

Have everything set up and working except the left switch in Diagram A is showing no signs of power at all. I will say I followed the diagrams exactly except for how the neutrals are wired for the left and the right in Diagram A so if that is the culprit can someone tell me exact White #s to switch from my current wiring.

Diagram A

Diagram B

I have two two-gang boxes that are of mention

BOX 1
Top Left 1 (Black #1, White #1, Red, Ground)
Top Left 2 (Black #2, White #2, Ground)
Top Middle (Black #3, White #3, Ground)
Top Right (Black #4, White #4, Red, Ground)
Bottom (Black #5, White #5, Ground)

Black Capped (Black #2, Black #3, Black #5)
White Capped (All # Whites)

Switch #1 (Black #1 in Line, Black wire in Line to black capped, inovelli provided neutral line to white cap)
This switch is part of a 4 way and what I believe is the left switch from the diagram A
Switch #2 (Black #3 in Line, Black wire in Line to black capped, inovelli provided neutral line to white cap)
This switch is part of a 3 way and what I believe is the left switch from the diagram B

BOX 2
4 separate entry points across the top
Top 1 (Black #1, White #1, Red, Ground)
Top 2 (Black #2, White #2, Ground)
Top 3 (Black #3, White #3, Ground)
Top 4 (Black #3, White #4, Ground)
Bottom (Black #5, White #5, Ground)

Black Capped (Black #2, Black #5)
White Capped (All # Whites)

Switch #1 (Black #1 in Load, Black #3 in Line, inovelli provided neutral line to white cap)
This switch is part of a 4 way and what I believe is the right switch from the diagram A
Switch #2 (Black #4 in Load, Black wire in Line to Black Capped, inovelli provided neutral line to white cap)
This is a simple single pole switch

Can someone help me get power to Switch #1 in Box #1. I am super confused how it doesn’t have power since I would think it is directly wired to the master power line.

Ok, I’m not exactly sure I follow that, but I think you have a 4-way switch leg (i.e. 3 switches). You wired it like the Diagram A except you did some unspecified deviation from the drawing. I know you were trying to explain below the diagram, but I couldn’t follow that.

Anyway, with a 4-way, the power should start in Box A, where the Black hot and White neutral power the switch. The Box B and Box C switches are powered using the Black and White conductors of the 3-wire Romex that connect them. Basically, all three switches Line and Neutral are wired in parallel.

So it sounds like part of this is working, except Switch A won’t power up. Strange, because as you pointed out, that’s where the power starts. Moreover, if B and C are powered up, A ought to be as well.

So when you started this, did you test the Romex that you consider the Line and Neutral USING A METER to determine it is actually a Line and Neutral?

So start at the beginning. Pull the Box A Inovelli out of the box. You can leave it wired. USING A METER, test between the Line and the Neutral terminals on the switch. Do you get 120V?

Also, can you explain in a few words “except for how the neutrals are wired”. This should have been pretty straightforward. You use the neutral sent on from the prior switch.

I will have to get a Meter to use and determine the proper wiring as you say, I have just been relying that incoming from bottom of the gang box is Line and top is outgoing load/line to another box.

In Diagram A switch A from old to new they show just two neutral wires that are capped and simply uncap them and put them in the neutral on switch A. My problem is that my neutral cap has 5 wires so I just added the provided neutral extender into the cap and other end into the switch, very similar to Diagram A switch B after image. Not sure if that makes a difference?

I see. Bottom in and top out is the convention, but better to use a meter to check. In your configuration, bottom “in” should be a 2-wire and the top “out” should be a 3-wire.

I understand about the neutral now. That should not make a difference. It’s perfectly fine to do it that way.