Finally received my Red Series Dimmer switch and am stoked to get it installed. Currently have an ongoing project to relight my family room and add a second fan.
I’m looking for any guidance on how to wire this in, hoping to NOT have to rewire anything.
In my drawing I used GREEN to represent WHITE, and note the power feeds the switched lights as well as the unswitched fans and the outlets.
Thanks for any help.
You may get it to work in the sw3 location without neutral.
Without running extra wires or buying an extra smart switch, I think the only way will be to swap your sw2 and sw3 from traditional 3-way (dumb) to aux switches.
Installing the Inovelli switch into SW3 works…kinda. It will turn the lights on/off, and will dim them as well. The app works and I’m pretty sure I can set up scenes. When turning things off, however, the switch likes to make loud clicks and the one of the six lights stays on (dimmed) and the rest turn off.
I am pretty sure I’ll end up installing add-on switches and be done with it. Now I have to decide if I get my lazy ass off the couch and make a Lowes run or if I just order a couple online.
Thanks everyone for your comments.
@mikedotginovelli - clicking is normal on the on/off. I haven’t noticed any clicking, but I’ll go listen to one and check.
I haven’t gotten my kitchen 3 or 4 way to work yet either . I’m working with @Eric_Inovelli to hopefully resolve issues. I also have multiple G8 bulbs that remain kit when the switch is off. Both on/off and dimmers keep it lit.
@mikedotginovelli - Clicking on and clicking off seem normal on dimmer. It’s the relay inside. It only clicks once to turn on or off. If it’s clicking multiple times then you may have an issue.
Also I just resolved my 3 and 4 way issues with the dimmers. I hadn’t noticed the extra setup instructions. I just thought it was more fluff (UL paperwork). I changed the parameters 12 and 13 to neutral and 3 way toggle. Saved it, now works like a champ. For your light remaining on, you may need a bypass installed since it’s non-neutral.
Is there any issue using the 1st Gen GE add-on switch as opposed to the 2nd Gen? Local hw store has 1st Gen available and I could get this thing wrapped up today, otherwise I’d have to order them in.
Throw back the dumb switches and change the parameters. Make sure it works. The aux switches will require another parameters change. I think you’re close.
I don’t think there’s a functional difference between 1 and 2 gen switches. I know gen 2 switches are thinner.
Okay, rewired using 2x GE add-on switches. Updated drawing below. Smart switch functions as expected, both add-on switches will turn lights off, but will not turn them back on. No relay clicked anymore. Went through the reprogramming trying to note that it now uses the neutral (white) wire and the other switches on the circuit are add-ons. Not sure how to say there is a neutral after telling the switch there isn’t.
What HUB are you using? If it’s not working via the config button, then we can do it via a manual parameter change.
I am using a Smartthings v2 hub.
@mikedotginovelli - Definitely not the NZW. If the dimmer, you should be using the LZW31. The 30 is for the on/off switches.
Folks, I think I’ve got it now. For some reason I had other device handlers that I was trying to use. It seems like some of the links lead to different handlers, so I finally went back to the product page and followed the link there. I’m now running the LZW31 Dimmer device handler and am able to configure it through the ST app. It all seems to be working, even setting the scenes and my add-on switches.
Thanks so much for your help with this, this is an amazing community.
Now I get to decide to Hubitat or not…
Yes on Hubitat! IMO…Glad you got it working.