4 Way with Blue Series Dimmer and 2 Dumb

Switches Wiring Discussion
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1

Ran through all the diagrams first and ended up here. I’m trying to place a Blue Series Dimmer in a spot where I have 3 dumb switches controlling one light.

As far as I can tell by the wires, my current wiring setup is this:

  1. Switch 1:

    • Black wire on the common screw gets power from the breaker (Romex with black, white, and ground).
    • Another black wire and gray wire are travelers going to Switch 2. (Romex with black and gray)

  2. Switch 2:

    • One Romex with red, gray, and a black wire in a wire nut:
      • Red and gray wires are travelers to Switch 3.
      • The black wire is wire-nutted and not connected to the switch.
    • Another Romex with gray and black wires and a ground:
      • Gray wire is a traveler from Switch 1.
      • Black wire is the common wire carrying switched hot from Switch 1 to Switch 3.

  3. Switch 3:

    • Single Romex with red, gray, and black wires.
    • Red and gray wires are travelers from Switch 2.
    • Black wire on the common screw is the final switched hot wire going to the light fixture?

With this understanding, I’ve wired the Inovelli switch into the Switch 1 position with:

  • Black Common → Line
  • Back Traveler → Load
  • Gray Traveler → Traveler
  • White Neutral (bundle from box) → Neutral
  • Ground → Ground

The switch works in this configuration, but toggling Switch 3 makes Switch 1 Inovelli lose power. Toggling Switch 2 then revives power, but then Incant touch Switch 2 or 3.

Am I incorrect about my assumptions for how this is wired?

Should I not wire the black traveler to the Inovelli load in this scenario?

Any help = greatly appreciated.

2

Note: I’ve tried programming the switch to make sure it’s in a 4 way dumb setup, by holding down on the paddle and pressing the config button 5 times. I get the pink led confirmation but no change in what happens with the switch.

3

How did you determine which box is the line box and which is the load box?

When the Inovelli loses power after a dumb switch is flipped and then regains it after another is flipped, it suggests incorrect load box identification.

When you have a line and load in separate boxes, the proper method for identifying the line box is to remove the incoming hot/black conductor from the switch and then test it using a meter between that conductor and the neutral bundle. Do this on both ends.

Also, in your description for Box 1, you describe the Romex going to Box 2 as a two-conductor black/gray. Typically, I’d expect a three-wire black/white/red from the line box to the next because the multi-way needs two travelers and needs to send the neutral from the line box to the load on the other end.

It seems you have a 3-wire between Box 2 and Box 3, so I’d look at the Box 1/2 connections to ensure you fully understand your topology.

4

Good point, and I’ll admit, I am no electrician.

I’ll try identifying the correct line box tonight with a meter. It was my assumption it was Switch 1 due to how the Romex is run (only one Romex with 3 wires going Box 3) but that may be a big assumption.