4 Way with Blue Series Dimmer and 2 Dumb

Ran through all the diagrams first and ended up here. I’m trying to place a Blue Series Dimmer in a spot where I have 3 dumb switches controlling one light.

As far as I can tell by the wires, my current wiring setup is this:

  1. Switch 1:

    • Black wire on the common screw gets power from the breaker (Romex with black, white, and ground).
    • Another black wire and gray wire are travelers going to Switch 2. (Romex with black and gray)
  2. Switch 2:

    • One Romex with red, gray, and a black wire in a wire nut:
      • Red and gray wires are travelers to Switch 3.
      • The black wire is wire-nutted and not connected to the switch.
    • Another Romex with gray and black wires and a ground:
      • Gray wire is a traveler from Switch 1.
      • Black wire is the common wire carrying switched hot from Switch 1 to Switch 3.
  3. Switch 3:

    • Single Romex with red, gray, and black wires.
    • Red and gray wires are travelers from Switch 2.
    • Black wire on the common screw is the final switched hot wire going to the light fixture?

With this understanding, I’ve wired the Inovelli switch into the Switch 1 position with:

  • Black Common → Line
  • Back Traveler → Load
  • Gray Traveler → Traveler
  • White Neutral (bundle from box) → Neutral
  • Ground → Ground

The switch works in this configuration, but toggling Switch 3 makes Switch 1 Inovelli lose power. Toggling Switch 2 then revives power, but then Incant touch Switch 2 or 3.

Am I incorrect about my assumptions for how this is wired?

Should I not wire the black traveler to the Inovelli load in this scenario?

Any help = greatly appreciated.

Note: I’ve tried programming the switch to make sure it’s in a 4 way dumb setup, by holding down on the paddle and pressing the config button 5 times. I get the pink led confirmation but no change in what happens with the switch.

How did you determine which box is the line box and which is the load box?

When the Inovelli loses power after a dumb switch is flipped and then regains it after another is flipped, it suggests incorrect load box identification.

When you have a line and load in separate boxes, the proper method for identifying the line box is to remove the incoming hot/black conductor from the switch and then test it using a meter between that conductor and the neutral bundle. Do this on both ends.

Also, in your description for Box 1, you describe the Romex going to Box 2 as a two-conductor black/gray. Typically, I’d expect a three-wire black/white/red from the line box to the next because the multi-way needs two travelers and needs to send the neutral from the line box to the load on the other end.

It seems you have a 3-wire between Box 2 and Box 3, so I’d look at the Box 1/2 connections to ensure you fully understand your topology.

Good point, and I’ll admit, I am no electrician.

I’ll try identifying the correct line box tonight with a meter. It was my assumption it was Switch 1 due to how the Romex is run (only one Romex with 3 wires going Box 3) but that may be a big assumption.