So a lot of discussion and variations of features here, so what are these? Could we have a summary of features and anything that may still be up in the air, preferably linked to the pre-order page if possible?
Yeah, 3 lines, saying works with red or blue series, which is a great start. However there is a config button that may or may not do anything, there was something in the thread about it working with dumb switches, we donât know how big it is or how much load it can safely use, etc
The config button (and paddle) will be able to trigger scenes from the Blue Series but not the Red (the same scenes as if youâre clicking the Blue directly, not additional scenes). Like Eric mentioned above, the Red series isnât able to detect the multi-taps.
Regarding dumb switches, are you asking about an auxiliary switch with a dumb switch? These donât have any smarts built into them so I donât think there would be a reason to go with that setup. If youâre asking about a 4 way where you have a Blue Series, an Auxiliary Switch, and a Dumb Switch all together, that Iâm not sure on offhand but my gut would lean towards that being problematic. The reason there being that the firmware allows you to set whether the switch is being used with Aux or Dumb switches, and not sure that a hybrid would work. Looks to be one or the other based on the wiring schematics. Youâll also note in those schematics that the Aux switch itself doesnât actually get wired up to the load, so thatâs why youâre not going to get that kind of information on the product page either.
Itâs an auxiliary switch. You donât run loads through an auxiliary switch. Are you looking for depth of product?
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Also want to comment that pulling the air gap also canât possibly disconnect the load since the load isnât wired to the aux switch. Iâm not sure why itâs even there because itâs just misleading.
For cosmetic purposes to match the actual switches. I will make sure to call it out in the instructions.
Are there any benefits to buying this aux switch if we already have a red series with a GE aux switch installed?
The only benefits I see are:
- it will look more similar to the red inovelli switch
- scenes are available with the config button
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Scenes are only available with Blue Series. Red Series do not recognize multi taps from Aux switch (limitation on hardware or firmware; canât remember).
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Ok, thatâs one of the missing pieces. Youâre implying that it is a remote, rather than hard-wired dumb switch that looks like a smartswitch.
Yes, depth of product would also be useful. Many of the products here specify dimensions and that can be critical for those of us with old, small, overcrowded junction boxes.
Yes, it is an Aux switch similar to those presently compatible with Inovellis. It looks like a smart switch as it has a config button and an air gap, but it does not have an LED.
Itâs about 1 1/8" measuring from the back of the strap.
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Project Update: Sorry all, this project slips through the cracks as most of my focus is on the 2-1. But all good news, these have also passed UL and will be in production at the same time as the 2-1, which weâre targeting the first couple weeks of August.
Hereâs some quick shots of the packaging and the manual!
AUX01 - Manual - v1.pdf (609.8 KB)
NOTE: URLâs on pg. 21 still need to be updated, but the short-codes will not change.
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I will make sure to call it out in the instructions.
But what does that do? Telling someone in the installation instructions that a safety feature is fake doesnât matter 10 years from now when a completely different user tries to use it for itâs intended purpose. I find it hard to believe that youâd be able to settle a lawsuit from the family of someone that electrocutes themselves by saying âOh, the electrician that installed this 10 years ago should have told you that the air gap switch didnât create an actual air gap.â
Thatâs like selling a rifle and having safety switches on both the left and right side but the one on the left side is a dummy and including a note in the box saying âOnly the right side safety switch disables the gunâ. If the left side switch actually moves like a safety, itâs more dangerous than if it didnât exist, and no disclaimer note is going to change that.
Thereâs ways of making the plate look the same without it giving the physical feedback of something functional. Like if instead of it pulling out it just fell off into your hand, that would clue someone in to the notion that it isnât working as an air gap switch. Iâd even suggest gluing it in place if I didnât think a user would just pull harder until it snapped off and then theyâd have a broken face. Unfortunately, thatâs likely what Iâd have to do if I installed these. That switch has to fail to act like an air gap switch if Iâm going to trust future me or some future owner of my home to attempt to use it as it appears.
How is this an Inovelli problem? I wouldnât even place it on a disclosure (and I didnât) because itâs not required. Itâs wired to NEC and is UL approved. Sounds like the new homeowner should do their due diligence instead of blaming the manufacturer.
Same with the rifle. I know how to operate my rifles. If I was unsure, Iâd be referring to the manual or Googling that sh!t.
Itâs a huge liability problem if you build in a safety device that is designed intentionally to not provide the suggested safety feature. How would you expect the new homeowner to do their due diligence? The instructions arenât on the face of the switch, heck, the name of the manufacturer and the model number arenât on the face of the switch. All the new homeowner sees is that the light is controlled by the switch and there is an air gap switch. All it takes is them not verifying that the switch is functional to put themselves at risk.
And while I doubt that you actually would ask to see the manual for a firearm before using the safety switch, thatâs not the issue. You arenât the one whoâs going to sue Inovelli. Itâs the person who doesnât read the manual before using an obvious safety feature that is (or their surviving family members). NEC and UL approval have nothing to do with it.
Um, I dunno . . maybe look to see if the light bulb turned off?
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Aux switches donât carry the load. These are UL approved which means they are designed to meet safety guidelines.
If the homeowner doesnât know what theyâre looking at or can logically understand the device, then they should hire a professional. This is already written into the manuals.
Iâd be willingly to say if the new homeowners havenât been exposed to a smart switch theyâd most likely not even know about the air gap switch. My wife doesnât know what the tab is for yet she isnât going to electrocute herself by illogically removing the device.
Inovelli wonât have to worry about being sued. People can try, but itâll be a waste of their money.
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Then why do they have an air gap switch? Nothing about the device says âno loadâ. From the user side, nothing about the device looks like it doesnât carry a load, in fact the air gap switch would imply that it does.
then they should hire a professional
To change a lightbulb?
This is already written into the manuals.
You plan on what, taping the manual to the switch?
Iâd be willingly to say if the new homeowners havenât been exposed to a smart switch theyâd most likely not even know about the air gap switch.
Air gapped dimmers have been around since the late 80âs at least, though.
she isnât going to electrocute herself by illogically removing the device
Itâs not about removing the device, itâs about changing a lightbulb. The sort of thing people do all the time without thinking about calling an electrician or checking a manual.
Inovelli wonât have to worry about being sued.
Not by you or I. But all it takes is one accident investigation to conclude that the air gap switch was faulty by design and there will be lawyers lined up to take that case.
Um, I dunno . . maybe look to see if the light bulb turned off?
The bulb is burned out, thatâs why youâre pulling the air gap switch, so you can safely change the bulb. You canât tell from the light if the circuit is hot or not because the bulb doesnât respond either way.
That was a joke ⌠
Appreciate the back and forth guys and I will work on some ideas for clarification on the website as well as user experience.
@Capeland â First, just wanted to say thanks for bringing this up as youâre right, safety always should come first, especially when dealing with 120V.
We talked internally about this dilemma when we were going back and forth about whether to include the non-functional air-gap and ultimately as there were no safety concerns from UL or the manufacturer, we opted to keep it in for aesthetics.
As for the reason why there are no safety concerns, as @harjms pointed out, the auxiliary switch does not directly control a load, and in a multi-switch setting, to ensure safety, itâs best practice to make sure all air-gaps are pulled out as you may not know what switch is connected to a load. Since the smart switch is always connected to load, this is the switch that physically cuts the power when that specific air-gap is pulled.
I hadnât thought about asking the manufacturer to glue the air-gap to the aux switch, however, I would think that people would then think the air-gap is stuck and may break the paddle trying to get it out.
As you mentioned, the other solution would be to not include the air-gap on that switch, however, we opted to match aesthetics (with the tradeoff being, of course, having a dummy air-gap).
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I do stand behind the choice of including the air-gap, but I will definitely monitor any support tickets that come in and if it is confusing for others, we will definitely make a change.
Again, I do appreciate you calling this out and allowing me to rethink user experience.
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