Backwards single pole switch?

So I think I have an odd situation.

I have an old switch with just two wires connected to it (Line/Load).

When testing the existing dumb switch I’m trying to swap it appears to have 0 ACV across the line when the light is on and 120 ACV when the light is off.

How can I get my red dimmer to work in this very odd configuration? Thanks!!!

I do have a neutral available which I’ve tried both with and without.

When I install the red dimmer:

It always seems to be sending 120 acv across Line → Load no matter if its on or off… I’ve tried different settings but thought I’d ask her for the correct way to do it.

Opening up Z Wave JS here is how things are configured:

Invert Switch: Default
Switch Type: Single-Pole
Operation Mode: On/Off Only

AC Power Type: Neutral
Behavior Local enabled

I am not totally understanding what you are saying. But do you think you have the switch wired correctly but it is sending power pressing the off position and cutting power pressing the on position?

If that is the case there are a couple of possibilities. The first is to make sure you have not installed the switch upside down. I’m going to guess that you haven’t, and that the LED bar is on the right hand side.

The second possibility is that you have parameter 11, invert switch, turned on.

On the other hand, I’m wondering if you have a non-neutral. I don’t understand how you can test for different voltages, as you should be testing with the wires disconnected, which obviously means you can’t turn the light on and off, if this is a 2-way.

Is this switch in it’s own box or in a multi-gang box?

I think I messed the voltage thing up.

Anyways I retested and identified the"other" wire from what I thought was hot.

ACV from Hot->Neutral = 120acv

I have a bundle of whites I’m assuming is natural…

If I put the wires “where they are supposed to go” including with neutral the LED on the switch doesn’t light up.

If I swap Line/Load it does light up … which is confusing me…

I think I’ll do a factory reset maybe

At this point, I think the best thing for you to do is post pictures with the original switch installed pulled out for the wall so we can see the connections and into the box.

You should not be arbitrarily moving wires around just to see if the new configuration works better. Let’s look at what you have and tell you how to test to confirm.


I just made a new post with pictures because I wasn’t sure how to delete this one…

See here much clearer…

Did you ever figure this out? I think I am running into the exact same issue. In fact, the switch power on the light if I pull the airgap… and kills it if I push the airgap in.