Blue Series 2-in-1 reboots constantly (2 way, non-neutral setup)

Switches Wiring Discussion
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Hi folks - would appreciate any advice you have, as I’m stumped, even after reading some similar posts.

Setup

  1. VZM31SN (Blue Series 2-in-1; bought in late November direct from Inovelli)
  2. 2 way
  3. Non-neutral at switch
  4. Switch controls a single ceiling light fixture (Philips Hue Enrave (Large) - 33.5W max draw)
  5. House built in early 70s

When I first powered it up, switch was fine - I was able to instantly adopt it. But shortly afterwards (and I don’t recall exactly what preceded this), it entered a reboot loop where it boots up by flashing three colors, then the ceiling light flashes on very briefly (100ms or so), then the light shuts off and the switch reboots. Happens immediately after I airgap it and try again, or after I cycle the circuit power.

I didn’t have a chance to change any of the parameters on the switch - so it’s not in smart bulb mode, etc.

Photos

Here’s the switch - I verified with a non-contact voltage tester that the white is hot / the line. I realize now I didn’t attach a ground since there was nothing hooked up to the previous dumb switch; I suppose I should do that no matter what, but would that make a difference in behavior?

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Here’s the power cable feeding into the gang box (green sheathing) - definitely on the older side:

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Here’s the box on the ceiling; I think it’s a newer set of wires (note white sheathing). Black is hot. I wired the ceiling fixture up black-to-black, white-to-white (+ ground).

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I don’t spot any other cables in there (though I didn’t dig in behind the box). Also don’t spot any junction boxes nearby.

I’ve tried an Aeotec bypass wired parallel at the ceiling fixture. Then added a second one. No difference in behavior.

From reading other threads, sounds like I could wire the light fixture hot full time, then send that hot and neutral to the switch box to power the Inovelli. But I have no idea to do that, so would definitely need an electrician at that point.

Would love any help! Thank you!

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Unfortunately, smart bulbs and non-neutrals can be problematic. You did the right thing by trying bypasses but unfortunately that didn’t solve the problem.

If you don’t have a bench setup or other means of independently powering up the switch to get it into the SBM, you could temporarily use a pigtailed lamp holder with a regular dimmable bulb to connect at the light box so that you would be testing without a smart bulb as the load.

Wiring both the light box and the switch box as constantly hot might solve your problem. Unfortunately, you have a junction box somewhere that you would need to find. You have Romex in the light box and older fabric covered conductors in the switch box. They are obviously joined somewhere.

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Ah - you think it should work if I can just get the switch into smart bulb mode? I can definitely give that a shot; I’ll just wire up the old light fixture temporarily, or put the switch into another known-good location.

I hear you on the junction box. Searched everywhere I could think and couldn’t find it. Maybe it’s in the attic.

Thanks - will report back.

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I don’t know, really. But it seems to be a logical next step.

A number of people here have experienced issues with non-neutrals and smart bulbs, so YMMV.

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