Blue Series no power

I ordered a 10 pack recently and have tried to install them at four different locations, but after flipping the breaker back on, the LEDs aren’t lighting up, and I can’t turn on or off the light. I’ve installed 6 other ones and they work fine. Furthermore, I used a multimeter to detect the line and load, as well as having a neutral at each switch. The lights I’m trying to install them at are 3 singular bulbs and 1 that’s 3 overhead lights on a rail, all work fine with dumb switches and dumb dimmers.

Any help would be appreciated thanks

Is the switch powering up? In other words does the LED bar light up, just your load lights not working?

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The LED bar does not light up no

Ok, so pull the switch out of the box and make sure both the hot and the neutral conductors are firmly connected. Sometimes conductors will slip out if the screw isn’t tight enough or if the conductor gets placed on the wrong side of the backing plate.

If they are firmly connected, carefully power up the circuit and using a meter, test for the presence of 120VAC between the hot and neutral screws. (Touch one probe to each of the bottom screws.)

Hot/line reads 120, neutral is 0. Screws are tight. Here are some pictures of some of the switches I’m trying to replace. The three overhead light switch is unique in that it is able to power on only if the neutral wire is also attached, but I still can’t turn on//off the 3 lights.

If you want effective assistance, you are going to have to provide more information and post meaningful pictures to help us diagnose. You posted numerous pictures of switches without any description of the issue(s), so no one is going to be able to assist by looking at those.

I suggest you work on one problem at a time. Take pictures so that we can see connections to the switch (not just the front) and see into the box. Also note if the installation is a 2-way, 3-way etc. Also, neutral or non-neutral installation? If the pic is of a multi-gang box, then state which is the switch at issue.

I’m not sure what you mean here. You were to test between the hot an the neutral screws. That provides ONE voltage reading.

If you are referring to the Inovelli here, that’s not unique as Inovellis need a neutral, unless this is a non-neutral installation. Can you explain more clearly?

I’ll agree with @Bry here. I’m not quite sure what I’m looking at with these pics.

The original post seems to indicate 4 Inovelli switches do not power on and LED does not light up. There are 4 pics of smart switches, but only 2 of them are Inovelli switches and only 1 of those has the LED off.

I’ll also add this. I’m seeing a lot of bare wire sticking out of a lot of these switches. You run a real risk here of ground faults which could trip circuit breakers, damage switches or even start a fire.

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Apologies, I have 3 switches that do not have power when installed, either with neutral or non-neutral. Besides those 3 I have a 4th switch that has power only in a neutral installation but cannot turn the light on or off. This switch has the highest priority out of the 4, so I decided to and would like to focus on this one that was pictured above and below.

Sorry I misunderstood, the reading says, 120VAC

I explain this above

If you need more information, please let me know

For the picture above (the one that has two switches), can you take some additional pictures for us?

Here’s what I’m looking for (and I’m assuming the other guys are too):

  • A clear visual of what wire goes to what switch (like a shot of inside the box so we can see the wires in the back and trace them to the switches)

Hang in there, we’ll figure this out!

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I appreciate you taking the time out of your day to respond to my post

here is the picture you requested


So that is the sort of picture we need, except the yellow wire nut with the hot pigtail is covering everything we need to look at. Can you pull that pigtail down and take it again?

Also, remove the Load conductor and test again between the Line and Neutral screws. Advise if you get 120VAC with just the Line and Neutral connected. If you do get 120VAC with just the Line and Neutral connected and you do not get the switch’s LED bar illuminating, factory reset the switch. (Config + paddle up for 40 seconds, release config then the paddle.)


I’ve done the test you suggested I was getting 120VAC with just the Line and Neutral connected, and the LED bar was still illuminated, I did a factory reset anyway, but it didn’t fix the issue

With all the back and forth, I kind of forget what the issue is – is it that the load isn’t turning on/off?

Sorry, we started the thread with no power going to the LED Bar and now we have power, but the load can’t be controlled, so I just want to make sure I’m giving relevant advice since we’re dealing with electrical.

Can you try doing the following:

  • Hold down on the bottom part of the paddle (do not release)
  • Tap the config button 4x (while still holding the paddle)
  • Wait for the LED Bar to flash blue

I’m just wondering if the switch somehow got stuck in Smart Bulb Mode.

If that doesn’t work, please try this:

  • Hold down on the bottom part of the paddle (do not release)
  • Tap the config button 10x (while still holding the paddle)
  • Wait for the LED Bar to flash red

Maybe it’s the angle on your recent picture, as I still can’t see completely inside of the box, but I only see TWO Romex 2-wires. Is that correct? I’m asking because if this is a neutral configuration, you need at least 3 Romex in a 2-gang box.

Here’s a better angle

Is the Blue still the switch on the right in that latest pic?

It sure looks like you just took one of the existing neutrals** out of the bundle and popped it straight in the Blue… If so, you can’t do that – all neutrals in the box (assuming they are all on same circuit) must be kept together.

The Blue came with a neutral pigtail - connect that to the Blue, then put all 4 white wires under one single nut. When dealing with 3+ wires (and mixing stranded/solid), it’s very easy to inadvertently push one or more wires “out” without noticing when you’re doing the nut, so be careful. In fact, it looks like that’s very close to happening now with your line hot bundle there.

That’s why I always use Wagos, but I’m guessing you don’t have any of those handy.

** - agree with Eric’s amplification below… It appears you happened to take the neutral from the hot feed, so that’s why some of the meter readings seemed OK.

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My thoughts exactly here!

What Hydro said . . . you killed the neutral going to both of your lights, so neither will work as you’ve wired it.

Rewire, presuming your top right Romex is the hot feed:

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Thanks everyone that’d seemed to be the problem, appreciate everyone’s help