This is a non neutral though. I’m pretty sure trailing edge requires a neutral.
I was thinking that after I posted. However, I looked all over the documentation, parameter table, etc in help.inovelli.com and I could not find any reference to it, so I left the post in there. Maybe I missed it or it’s just somewhere in here??
OP, you’ll have to try it. Rohan may be correct.
From the Zigbee2mqtt docs for the blue series:
Yep.
That needs to go in the parameter table, etc.
Thx!
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Since this is a smart bulb setup, the easiest path forward may be to remove the bypass, rewire at the light to send a constant hot and neutral back to the switch and then use binding / automation to control the smart bulb.
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Yup @Bry here’s what is says in HA:
@rohan Are you suggesting that I won’t be able to fix the humming sound without add a neutral?
I don’t know for sure, but it seems like the easiest solution to fixing the problem.
Alright, seems like it would just be adding a 12/3 romex instead of 12/2. Hopefully this does it!
What @rohan is suggesting is that at the light you wire the black going to the switch to the hot in the light box and the white going to the switch to the neutral in the light box, and the ground going to the switch to the ground in the light box.
This is just a re-wiring but still uses a 12/2. No 12/3 needed.
This way you have a hot and neutral at the switch to make it a scene controller. Since you are using smart bulbs, there will be no load on the switch. The light(s) will be powered full time in the light box. Just remember to throw the breaker if you have to work on them, since the switch will no longer cut power to the bulbs.
Isn’t that how it’s wired at the light at the moment?
Do you mean at the switch just connect black to the line and white to the neutral?
I am confused regarding what you have going on. Initially, you posted a picture of a switch box with an older 2-conductor fabric-covered wire, which indicates a switch loop. According to your testing, the black was hot. That’s not incorrect, but it’s unusual, suggesting that an electrician may not have wired it.
You wired the Inovelli as a non-neutral and reported it worked, but there was buzzing at the switch. Then you added a bypass at the light, but that apparently didn’t resolve the issue. So @rohan suggested rewiring to send the hot and neutral to the switch box since you are using a smart bulb, making the Inovelli a scene controller with no load.
You just posted a picture where the hot and neutral is being sent to the switch box with a bypass installed, asking if that wasn’t already wired as @rohan suggested. If that is the case, then you shouldn’t be wired as a non-neutral at the switch. If you have a hot and neutral at the box, then those conductors go into the hot and neutral terminals on the switch. NOTHING on the load. Remove the bypass, which is unnecessary because you are just powering the switch with no load.
Another troubling thing is that the picture of the ceiling shows two new #12 Romex. The cable in the box is much older fabric-covered wiring. So, if you believe that ceiling wiring is going to the switch box, there is a junction box somewhere connecting the older fabric-covered wire with the new #12 Romex. The point is that even though the ceiling connections look to be properly wired, you don’t know how it’s wired in the junction box.
The best thing to do at this point is use a METER to test between the black and white in the switch box to see if you get 120V. You can’t use a non-contact tester for this. If you do get 120V at the box, then you can disregard looking for/examining the junction box and wire the Inovelli hot to Line and white to Neutral.
If I misunderstand what you have going on here, please let me know.
I get 120V from the black wire, none from the white. This is without the bypass. However shouldn’t the lights be powered on? I don’t see the lights on.
So do I put the black to line and white to neutral still or there’s another issue? @Bry
I suggest that you consult with an electrician to get some help. Working with electricity requires knowledge to be safe. It’s OK that you don’t understand electrical concepts, but you have to know when you’re in over your head and need an electrician to assist.
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Cool. Thanks for the help!