It would require 2 relays inside the device so I doubt it will happen. Fitting another relay in a tight space like this would be difficult.
I guess what I am saying is that it was a PRD requirement from the start (full sine wave in neutral, on/off config). If they didnāt meet the Inovelli requirements then this is a major concern.
It might be possible to do a full-on with a firmware change, but it wonāt be with a relay bypassing the mosfets.
What happens if you configure it as a 3-way (without connecting anything else)? Would that force it to actually āuseā the relay? When off, power would (presumably) go to the traveler terminal - but that wouldnāt be connected to anything.
Halogen bulbs need HUGE inrush current to get burning. I have a Zooz Zen30 driving two sconces on my front porch, with the driveway post lamp running on the relay circuit of the switch. The dimmer part of the Zen30 could not handle the halogen bulbs I installed in the sconces. I saw similar pulsing/flickering and Zooz Support was able to pin it down to the Zen30 not being able to deliver the startup current demanded by the bulbs. Halogen + smart dimmer didnāt work there, and Iād place better than even odds that youāre seeing the same issue with your Blue 2-1 and the halogens in your fixture. Can you replace the bulbs with incandescent or LED?
Halogen bulbs drawing a ton of power makes a lot of sense! Iām going to try swapping in LEDs instead, maybe the transformer supports themā¦ What could go wrong (:
I doubt itā¦ can you bypass the transformer and send the line voltage coming from the switchās load terminal directly to the bulb sockets? Iād think that would be the safest way to test using LED bulbs.
The transformer seems to be hidden in drywall somewhere, from the buzzing sound itās right around inside the shower cabin footprint. I found these LED lights that are a perfect fit for the Halogen ones I have in there already (at least in terms of form factor) - if they work, that might work; if not, I guess Iād have to dig up the transformer anyway.
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The buzzing is caused by the square wave component of the dimmer signal having harmonics in it. Those harmonics alter the magnetic field of the transformer. Altering the magnetic field causes the transformer to physically move. And when it moves, it buzzes. The easiest way to fix this is to unbolt the transformer from its housing, insert high temperate safe padding and screw it back in place. It still vibrates but now it doesnāt make noise. Another option is to get a better transformer, high end transformers change the way the windings are done to try and minimize this effect. This is a common problem when using dimmers, transformers and halogens. It is also possible to mitigate this electronically. High-end Lutron dimmers do that.
Thanks for that explanation! I think Iāve not been as worried by the buzzing (although it is definitely unpleasant), as about the strobing of the lights (see the video in the imgur link above). Sounds like high initial current draw would explain that, and might not be work-aroundable with Halogens. Guess itās high time to convert the whole thing to be LED-based.
Strobing is definitely bad. It is exceeding the capacity of the dimmer. The dimmer then turns off and resets, they it repeats.
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