I had previously installed the Commercial Electric 6" LED recessed lights with “night light” feature and just recently installed and set up LZW31 and LZW31-SN switches to replace the old toggle switches.
Bad idea, not only do they buzz, but they get out of sync, so some will be on and others will be in nightlight mode. It seems like turning off the switch doesn’t quite turn off the circuit, if I use the air-gap then it will reset them, but then they get out of sync again. They didn’t do this with the toggle switches.
Anyway, I have 14 of them in 2 circuits, so I figured I’d do some research. I actually got them at Home Depot, so I checked their website and lo-and-behold, similar complaints in the comments:
Anyway, seems like someone with the same problem with a Lutron Caseta dimmer “solved it” by adding a Lutron load capacitor (part #LUT-MLC).
Is there anything similar to the “Load capacitor” for Innovelli switches? (LZW31/LZW31-SN).
EDIT: I should point out the switches both have neutrals (and are configured so).
Yea not always the case on the wattage. Seems to be bulb dependent. I have 12 6W bulbs that I ended up having to install a bypass just to make it work. Buying new bulbs was more expensive.
I have those same lights. I believe it is the slow ramp rate that makes them get out of sync. By default, the Inovelli has a slow ramp (soft start) and this confuses the on/off/on logic in the halo lights that controls whether it illuminates the downlight or the halo light
I set the Inovelli switch ramp rate to 0 (instant on) and the halo lights work as expected
This light seems really cool but before I buy one could you please tell me how you set it to toggle between the Halo and regular light? I would be controlling the light with an Inovelli Red Series, V2 through Hubitat. (BTW, I saw to set the dimming speed to 0 to avoid that issue with going between the 2).
Also, is there a way to change what they call “color” (but is Kelvin, not RBG colors) as well via Hubitat?
Does the Kelvin setting affect only the main light or the “color” of the Halo as well?
Set the RAMP rates (params 3-4) to 0. You can set the Dimming rate (params 1-2) to 1 if you like, but RAMP 0 (params 3-4) is how you can reliably switch the halo on/off/on
Hello Mamber,
if you or anyone could help me with my project I would be so greatful!
I just want a canless recessed light that will work with the red dimmers and it needs to dim all the way to zero if possible. Related to these posts - Do you have Commercial Electric lights that are canless and do they dim all of the way?. I am open to anything that will work.
History:
I have the red dimmers already and the 20 lights I have just installed are evidently ELV lights that are not compatible with red dimmers, They would flicker and the only way to get them to work is a Leviton dimmer which worked well but could only dim to about 30%… basically very bright @ 1% when programming or using the slide switch on the switch itself. My lights are sunco and I called them only to determine their Retrofit recessed lights will dim all the way to zero, but the slim canless WILL NOT. I have the retrofit and they work great so I am seeing this exactly.
I cannot believe there is not one or many options out there for CANLESS LED RECESSED LIGHTS that correctly dim to 1% / zero like my retrofit lights do. If the retrofit had the clips I could just clip off the wires and use them instead but they have the special clips to grab the cans.
I am about to send the red dimmers back unless I can find lights that will work. I will then have to remove all the lights and send them back.
Here are the lights I have that do not work in case someone wants to add these to the list of NOT working:
These lights DO work but are retrofit connections:
I assume the latter lights are not ELV lights but Sunco could not give me any info. They provided a list of dimmers that would work but NONE are z-wave.
Thanks for your help or ANYONE’S HELP!!!
I am in the middle of a construction job and I am holding up the whole show.
I was having the same problem as @snowball, but even after setting params 1-4 to 0 (immediate) I still get lights out of sync regularly. Would purchasing the Aeotec Bypass and installing it fix the problem?
For reference, I am in a single-pole, no neutral configuration on the switch, with 4 of the LEDs wired in series.
I think he means 4 in a row downstream from the feed. Since this is a switch loop I wouldn’t think it’s a new installation. Plus with 4 in series you’d only have about 30VAC per bulb, which probably woudln’t illuminate them.
Yea sorry @mamber, I just meant they were chained. From a pure wiring perspective I believe it’s what you would call parallel - the black wire from the source gets connected to the black wire of the first light + the black wire that runs to the next light, which repeats until the last light.
I installed the Aeotec Bypass yesterday and the results are promising! First, I can dim the lights lower than before and if they do end up dimming all the way to “off”, when I dim back up, the lights don’t get flipped to nightlight mode like they used to. They also all turn on and off at the same time rather than one or two being slightly delayed. The lights haven’t yet come out of sync since, but if they do I’ll report back. Otherwise, I’d say the solution to the problem is a combination of the ramp rate being set to 1 (no need to set to 0 anymore like I used to…plus at 0 the manual dimming didn’t work as nicely) AND the bypass device.