One year ago Iâd agree I was pushing it, probably so much I wouldnât even dare to say what I said LOL
Iâve always done whatâs known as a âsplit setupâ. So instead of putting everything in one huge yaml file, I organized it into folders and individual files for each integration. So Iâd have like thermostats.yaml, sonarr.yaml, google_nest.yaml, etc⌠etc⌠Everything got itâs own folder so it was easy to find to adjust if needed.
Overall I had like 70-80 individual yaml files. As of this month, thatâs now down to less than 10. And those are more niche items. Everything else is all done in the GUI now. The push to make it a more user-friendly platform has been huge and they really are starting to get to the point where the more entry-level user can get fairly comfortable with it quite quickly.
I just installed my first Inovelli switch (replacing a GE enbrighten switch), and I have two problems:
the scene control is backwards from every other switch I have in my system (Aeotec, Zooz, Enbrighten), Scene002 is tap up, and Scene001 is tap down. I initially tried inverting the switch, but the local control is reversed in the process - I had to change my scene controls. I think this is a Z-Wave standard, correct me if Iâm wrong, please.
I tried smart bulb mode so the switch would only send remote scene controls, but the internal relay no longer responds to any on/off commands. How do I configure the switch so the paddle sends remote scene events, but the internal relay is not controlled by the paddle?
The scenario is the switch controls an overhead light I only want to come on when I double tap, and I want single taps to turn on a scene for the rest of the room (controlled from home assistant).
Thatâs what itâs supposed to do. If you are powering smart bulbs via a wired connection, then you do not want the paddle presses to cut the power to the bulbs.
Exactly how you have it by turning on Smart Bulb Mode. This ensures the switch constantly puts out 100% and paddle presses have no effect on the wired load.
Presuming the overhead light is not a smart bulb? If so, put the switch in the smart bulb mode. Code an automation to turn the SWITCH on with a double-tap up (and probably off with a double-tap down. Code an automation to run your scene with a single-tap up.
If you want dimming, instead of using the Smart Bulb Mode, just Disable Local Control. That way paddle presses will have no effect, but you can still set a dim level with your automations.
Scenes are triggered by various taps up and down. The switch doesnât know what your scenes are. It only knows to send paddle press info to the hub. From there, the hub runs the appropriate scene from the appropriate paddle press.
By âSceneâ in this case, I mean the scene class sent by the switch as a value notification on the ZWave protocol. I havenât put it under a debugger, but either the switch itself is sending a different message set for switch command classes, or the Home Assistant/ZWave-JS mapping from the value notification to a zwave_js_value_notification is reversed from every other switch type. Every other switch Iâve tried sends Scene001 events on tap up, and Scene002 events on tap down. This switch is backwards to all of them, which means I canât just drop-in replace other switches.
This is what Iâm asking - putting the switch into smart bulb mode resulted in the local relay being always on - not responding to any automations. How do I disable local control, but make the relay respond to on/off commands?
My LZW31-SN energy consumption increases 0.011kwh every 4 hours despite the switch being off for the entire duration. The power measurement always shows 0 Watt during this time. Itâs configured and wired using neutral line. It has firmware 1.61. Even with parasitic energy use from the notification led and the microcontroller, it shouldnât draw that much energy in only 4 hours. The energy consumption shows up very strangely in my household energy itemization, but otherwise the switch works correctly. Is this normal for this device?
I donât recall if the cumulative data includes the switchâs draw, but if it does, thatâs only 2.75W instant. That doesnât seem out of line for a smart switch power draw.
There is a thread here somewhere in which power stats were discussed, but I couldnât find it. @EricM_Inovelli may be able to provide further details re the draw stats.
Actually, I think itâs 2.91W. But why is the instantaneous power always 0W when the load is turned off? Was the quiescent load excluded from the power measurement, but not the accumulated energy consumption? Maybe, but then two separate current sensors are needed to measure both loads separately. If so, then count me impressed at the level of sophistication. Or maybe it calculates the standby power in some way and only applies it to the energy consumption measurement, not the instant power. However, that seems needlessly confusing to be intentional.
Iâm not sure on that. There was a discussion here a couple years ago regarding the measurements. I recall @EricM_Inovelli discussing how the three values were determined, but I couldnât find that thread. So what I was saying, as you noted, is that IF the switchâs draw is included in the cumulative stat, what youâre seeing seems normal.
fyi, I calcâd 0.011*1000 = 11W/4 hours. 11/4 = 2.75W
The MCU (Z-Wave chip) load is not shown in the output when the switch is off. We actually did do that in one of the firmware releases and people were confused why their switch would say 1W consumption even when it is off. So it is working as designed.