I installed a LZW31-SN that controls a ceiling fan/light combo. The switch did not have a neutral wire. The first time I installed it and turned power on, the switch itself did not power on. I installed a bypass at the fan and then the switch would power on. Problem is that if I turn the lights off at the fan, then the switch looses power. If I turn the lights on at the fan, and then turn the fan on, and then turn the lights back of, everything will continue to function correctly. However, if you turn the LZW31 switch of, then the switch itself will loose power. To fix it, I have to turn the lights on at the fan and then cycle the air gap switch. Any ideas for a permanent solution? Is it possible to install a bypass on the fan motor some how?
I see this on the product page, but I’m not sure if it just means it can’t control the fan or not.
Use with Fan: No
No.
I don’t think the dimmer is rated for inductive (motor) loads. Get a LZW36 Fan/Light combo.
You have at least a 2-wire running between the fan and the light, right. So if you don’t have a neutral at the switch box you will have a hot and neutral at the fan box. Run that hot and neutral back to the switch box via the existing 2-wire and you’ll be able to power the LZW36.
Do I just pull the load wire at switch box with a new load and new neutral wire attached to the end at the fan?
I think so, lol. At the fan box you probably have a hot (black) and a neutral (white). Connect them to the black and white of the 2-wire that is running to the switch box. Now you have a hot and neutral at the switch box.
Are you sure you don’t have a neutral at the switch box? Just one Romex (two conductors plus a bare ground) in the switch box? That’s it?
Yes, I’m sure. House was built in the 1930s. There are only two wires, each independent of each other and encased in the braided sheath material.
Ok, agreed. So with power at the fan, using a LZW36 and running the power back to the switch box is the solution.