I don't see how to make this two wire switch installation work

Switches Wiring Discussion
#1

The way my dumb switch is wired is

  1. Hotwire in switch box from the panel (via the fixture I think)
  2. Load wire from the bulb in the switch box
  3. The ground wire in switch box
  4. The other wire in the fixture connects somewhere else, presumably neutral on the panel.

I tried an aeotec nano dimmer with the jumper for no neutral but it didn’t work. I tried a ge-enbrighten also, using the wire from the bulb as neutral. The switch powered, joined the network and responded to smart things but the light doesnt turn on when the switch powered. Also the blue light led on the switch was reversed (on when light was supposed to be on and off when when light was supposed to be off).

Can I make a zwave switch work with this without pulling additional wire which is problematic because there is no conduit: just an in-wall Romex cable.

#2

Ok, let’s figure out what you have. I thinks and presumablys don’t work well here. We’ll take it one step at a time.

  • How many switches control this light? I’m thinking it’s one but you say 3 wire. (Don’t count the bare ground.)

  • If this is a single switch installation, how many conductors in the Romex to the switch are there? (Do not count the bare ground.)

#3

One switch. Not a three way. There are two wires in the Romex not counting the ground. Thanks!

#4

Ok, thanks. So when you pull out the existing switch and look at the wiring, how many Romex are connected. The two possibilities are one Romex with the white connected to one terminal on the switch and the black connected to the other OR two Romex with the black from each connected to the switch and the whites bundled together not connected to the switch.

#5

One Romex with the white connected to one terminal on the switch and the black connected to the other terminal. The white one is hot.

#6

Ok, so it sounds like a non-neutral with a single Romex to your switch. Power goes to the light. The line gets sent to the box via the white, which is constantly hot and the switched hot is returned to the light via the black.

You are not going to be able to use an Inovelli switch as that requires a neutral. However, you can use an Inovelli dimmer, which doesn’t require a neutral. While you may not want a dimmer, there are settings that can make the dimmer perform as a switch.

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#7

Thanks. I see how this works. And I will also need a bypass, right? Because the load is an LED down light retrofi?

#8

@bogometer - Not always, but probably being it’s a LED. If so, you’ll have to install it at the light fixture.