Installing bypass on switch end of of load

Switches Wiring Discussion
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#1

I have a Blue 2-in-1 in a non-neutral setup that I’m trying to configure in smart bulb mode for a Phillips 578727 Hue bulb in a recessed can. Due to the way the can was installed, getting behind the fixture to wire a bypass isn’t practical (hopefully I never have to change the fixture :grimacing:). Is there a supported config to wire the bypass in at the switch side?

I’ve tried putting a bypass both in series and in parallel with the switch, on the load end of the wire to no effect. The best I can get is to have the switch power up on initial power restore (bulb defaults to on). As soon as the bulb turns off, the switch dies and can’t be restored without resetting the bulb (getting enough load to power the switch).

Any advice would be very much apprecatied!

#2

No the bypass has to be installed where a neutral is present. One wire of the bypass connects to the load line coming from the switch; the other wire of the bypass connects to the neutral.

#3

Drat. Of course, that makes sense in hindsight. The bypass has to be able to create a load on the circuit.

I was hoping someone might be familiar with something that could be screwed into an existing lamp socket base to allow the bypass to be pigtailed in between the bulb and the original socket. I see there are various extenders and ones that add full receptacles to lamp sockets, but nothing that look quite right for giving me a place to wire in a bit of extra load.