Keeping the circuit on when the paddle is pressed off

How To's & Flex Zone
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I’ve got a use case that I could use some help with.

I use Home Assistant and have been seeing some instability in my Zigbee network lately. Most of my routers (repeaters) are light bulbs, but the network doesn’t update dynamically enough when they are off and on.

I have a set of Zigbee router light bulb on a single pole Red Switch. My idea is that when I press down on the switch paddle that it doesn’t actually cut power to the bulbs. Instead, I’d like to trigger a scene where the bulbs luminance is set to zero. That way they could still function as a repeater even though they would appear to be off. Then when I press up on the paddle an alternate scene could be triggered to bring the light level up.

I’m looking at @ffingers post here and I think I’m doing something similar (albeit smaller scope).

I want to make sure I understand how to wire line and load together to keep the circuit powered. Is that done by simply putting the load wire in the other wire connect for line on the switch?

I use the ZWaveJS2MQTT integration and can see my configuration options there but I don’t see how to disable the local control. Is that a configuration option or a by-product of the wiring configuration?

After that I still have to figure out how to build the scene automation so if anyone has a recommended write up on doing that in Home Assistant I would love to hear about it!

Thanks,
Bryan

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That capability is built into the switch. TBH, that is how your Zigbee bulbs should have been wired from the start.

Leave the switch wired as is. Turn it on and then press the config button 8x. That will disable local control, so that pressing up and down will have no effect on what is physically wired to it. Basically you now have a scene controller.

I’ll leave it to the HA folks to give you instructions on how to implement scenes.

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Will it work the same way in a three way circuit (with a dumb switch)?

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Sort of. It will for the Inovelli, but the dumb switch can still cause the power to be cut. There is no way to override this, so the solution would be to use an Aux in place of the dumb switch.

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