If that’s even coming from the dimmer. You can get that from capacitive coupling.
True. Maybe my logic of thinking is just not designed. My thought was IF Neutral used, the excess voltage would be drained back through the neutral and thus keeping the effective output of LOAD to be Zero. IF non-Neutral used, the excess voltage would be drained through the LOAD and back to Neutral at the fixture. It would just be nice not to have to use a bypass on ANY neutral installation. The On/Off switch, even with the mechanical relay does this in a 3-way as well. The traveler line has enough voltage present to illuminate the LEDs.
Understand the LEDs are the culprit and not an issue with some other brands or incandescent.
Agreed. It’s just complicated with the varying technologies used for both LEDs and dimmers.
I don’t have LEDs on my dimmers. 
I just never had these kinds of issues with my last house. I used all GE z-wave switches when I did that house. I had a wide variety of lights installed from $1 cheapo LED’s to nice dimmable ones. Never experienced anything like this. This is the kind of thing I would expect from a non-neutral setup.
I have to decide now, do I spend $15 per switch, and buy a bypass, or spend money to replace almost all my lights. Or send these back and go back with GE switches again? I love how these switches work, but it would be cheaper for me to buy a more expensive switch that doesn’t have this issue.
I really love these switches, and I’ve really been impressed with the company and was eagerly awaiting my initial order of 30 switches, but this could be a show stopper for me.
@benk016, @harjms and I are talking directly with the manufacturer to see if we can figure this out. I understand the frustration and dilemma 
I had a similar issue with a red series dimmer where the CREE surface mount lights would still glow dim when turned off. The solution in my case was to disconnect the ground at each surface mount LED light. Once the ground was removed at each light they completely switched off. Hope this helps.
I definitely have it set to Neutral. However I feel like half the time I make parameter settings in SmartThings, it doesn’t actually work. Sometimes I have to go back into the classic app to be able to change parameters.
Could you perform it at the switch for $hits and giggles? Just wanted to get as much data together and ensure it’s set the parameters. There’s plenty of threads where the switch did not take the parameters.
I tried this on a few switches just now and same result. Is there any way to confirm that the switch actually has a parameter set?
When I go into config mode my thought is it should flash purple for the value that parameter is currently set for. But every time they don’t flash at all like its not set.
So for the neutral setup, I’m holding the config button until its yellow, then pushing it 12x. It then flashes yellow 1 long flash and 2 short flashes. But thats it. I can then hit up once and it flashes purple once. Then I hold the config button until it goes yellow, and then flashes cyan. But if I do it over again it doesn’t flash purple for that parameter until I push the up button again to get it back to 1. Is that expected?
Removing the ground from a light isn’t something that should be recommended or implemented. The ground is there for safety reasons. Just because it works doesn’t mean it is a proper solution.
It also make me wonder if you have some unintentional capacitive coupling putting stray voltage on your grounds.
1 Like
Yeah, Unhooking the ground is not something I’ll be doing for sure. That is definitely not a fix.
Is there any update on this issue? Last I heard was discussions with manufacturer. Thanks.
@benk016 @Wicks @Eric_Inovelli - Yes the manufacturer got back a couple of days ago. I haven’t had much time to post; however, this is was the response.
“ Hi James ,after confirmed with enigneers ,it’s common to have voltage output during the light off bc the MOS component inside of the device has backward diode feature, which means whe lights off there still has current go throgh the MOS and if the load is too heavy that would make the output voltage to be higher accordingly”.
So, yes the voltage output is a normal characteristic of the dimmer (which @Bry explained). Thus the voltage can lead to LEDs being excited and illuminating when the expected behavior is off.
@Eric_Inovelli -Feel free to edit if you want to remove any of the content to ensure it doesn’t violate any terms.
1 Like