I have a 3 gang box I’m upgrading with inovelli blues.
I replaced two switches and tested to see if they’re working. They powered up and were added to my hub. But they won’t toggle the state of the lights. I tried the one remaining dumb switch and it will not toggle the state of the lights either.
I checked my breaker box and nothing is tripped.
Is it time to call an electrician? 
Can you turn the lights on and off from the hub?
I can control the switches from the hub. They’re in single pole full sine on/off mode. I hear them click both from a direct tap of the switch and a remote toggle via the app. But the lights won’t come on.
Even the light that has not been converted to a smart switch stopped working. It seems like every light controlled from this 3 gang box is now dead.
I think your best bet is to call an electrician. With what you posted, there isn’t too much anyone here can do to help you. It sounds as if your re-wiring killed the power to the 3rd switch. That may take some on-site troubleshooting/tracing required since you don’t have a set of working dumb switches.
It takes a certain level of electrical knowledge to wire these, and there are times it’s best to get some professional help.
If the electrician needs some guidance if he/she isn’t familiar with Inovellis, you can post back.
I think I diagnosed the issue.
I had un-bundled the neutral wires to make it easier to run them to the switches. It sounds like neutral wires on the same circuit need to remain bundled.
I’m going to pick up some wago connectors and fix this. The pigtails are such a nightmare to work with.
Yes, assuming they’re all on the same breaker (generally a safe assumption but verify if uncertain), all neutrals in a box must absolutely stay bundled together. Wagos are a good call.
Edit to add… pigtails are the way to go - the more electrical work you do, the more you’ll grow to appreciate using them.
Thanks! The neutrals were all bundled together to start with, and the breaker kills power to all the lights that stopped working after I un-bundled the neutrals — my understanding is this means they’re on the same circuit.
Multimeter shows hot wires are still hot when I have the breaker delivering power there, and the bulbs all still work when put in other fixtures. So the unbundled neutrals seem like the top contender for being the culprit.
Just in case anyone has similar issues and finds this thread, it was indeed the neutral wires.