I have a switch wired in a non neutral configuration, connected to a single smart bulb. The switch receives power from the light along the white wire (tagged as hot) and then load on the black wire. I have an aeotec bypass wire in parallel with the light. I measure 120V at line, 105V at load, and 129V at the switch neutral screw for whatever reason. The light seems to be happy with what it’s getting as theres no flicker. The switch parameters are set to no neutral and smart bulb mode. I have an automation set up to control the Hue bulb. When I press the down button to turn to light off, sometimes it works and if it does turn the bulb off, the switch notification LED will flash red, green, blue (can’t remember the order) and then the light will turn back on.
I’ve looked through some of the older threads on this issue, but haven’t seen anything that matches what I’m seeing or my setup. Anyone have any ideas on stuff I could try or why it’s doing this?
The RGB flashing is the switch rebooting when the bulb is powering off. This is occurring because the switch isn’t getting sufficient power from the non-neutral configuration. From your description, you are probably right on the edge of the minimum power requirements, and that drops during powering off.
This has been experience by a few here in the past. If my memory serves me correctly, some have resolved it by adding a 2nd bypass but others not.
You can test by temporarily swapping in an incandescent bulb. If that works properly, then it’s the power issue I described above. The power requirements for a LZW31-SN in a non-neutral configuration is a minimum 25W. Unfortunately, a most (if not all) Hue bulbs draw less than that. Maybe try a Hue bulb that draws more than the one you have presently installed.
Just added a 2nd bypass and it seems to be happier. Still only measuring 105V at the load screw and 80V at the neutral screw, but if that isn’t a concern, I’ll leave it
Glad you got it going. I would not be concerned about the voltage on the load terminal. Inovelli reduced the dimmer output in an updated firmware to address other issues, so what you’re seeing is normal.