I guess I should have added mine to this thread since I have the same bulb and issue.
@Eric_Inovelli Even if I got a dimmer to solve this, won’t I still need the neutral for my 3 way installation? That’d imply that I’d also need to get a bypass then. Hopefully, the manufacturer can figure out what’s going on with the on/offs and a firmware update could solve this.
You wouldn’t technically need it, but it’s probably better that you use it so you can take advantage off all the special features. Yes, you would need a bypass. Again, I’ll PM you as well as the others with G8 bulbs and I’m going to start a list of compatible bulbs for the On/Off’s too and list this one as non-compatible so others can hopefully know ahead of time.
I’m hoping it’s a firmware fix too, but my gut is telling me it’s a hardware issue.
Add me to the list with this issue. I have 4w non-dimmable led for a total of 12w, apparently this is to low for the switch. When I switched out a single bulb for a higher draw LED bulb, the lights would turn off completely. Somewhere between 13w and 19w and it works as expected. Although I would expect the lower draw bulbs to work fine as well.
I’m having the same issue with the led recessed fixtures in my house. I believe they are around 14 watts. Did not have an issue with the Gen 1 switches. Hopefully there is something I can do to fix this. I did submit a ticket for the issue. Here is a link to my Lights
Sea Gull Lighting Traverse II 6 in. White Integrated LED Recessed Kit
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sea-Gull-Lighting-Traverse-II-6-in-White-Integrated-LED-Recessed-Kit-14701SC-15/303060377
@Eric_Inovelli I had the same issue as a 3 way circuit so I removed the 3 way part of the circuit. Now I can control the lights, but since it is still a low wattage LED light string when I turn the switch off the lights are still on dim. I would rather not waste one of the Dimmers I have for this location since it will only be holidays and we would not be dimming them.
I fixed this by adding one of the Bypasses that I received for the Dimmer setups. Now lights turn on and off with out dimming.
I’m loving these switches so far but I’ve got the same thing going on with a LZW30-SN I installed on Friday.
It’s controlling about 48 feet of rope light in the ceiling cove of my bedroom; it’s not part of a 3-way circuit. It pulls about 33 W when it’s on.
When the switch is off there’s still some amount of power making its way to the rope light because it’s on ever so dimly. Can’t really notice it until the room is pitch black.
Is firmware version 1.09 the latest?
I’ve seen some YouTube videos about this phenomenon.
Here’s one:
Is there any update to this issue? I was referred here as a solution to a support case I opened with lights glowing after putting a black switch in.
Based on @Eric_Inovelli’s post at the top, the bypass doesn’t work with the on/off swicthes: Scenario #2 - On/Off Switch (Single Pole) - With Bypass Installed: 1x G8 bulb
Now, the bulb does not turn on, nor off.
Since I was directed here from a support case, I would think there would be an actual solution. @Eric_Inovelli
@iderdik - the scenario was using G8 bulbs. This may act differently with a different style of bulb. Not to say it will be the all solution.
I fixed this problem with my LZW30 by replacing the bulb.
I measured a small induced voltage between load and neutral when the switch was turned off. It’s not a switch problem. The induced power (31mV AC) was enough to dimly light the cheap LED bulb I had in the fixture.
Sorry if this a silly question, but when a neutral is connected, shouldn’t all the load for the switch circuitry be going through the line and neutral leaving the load to neutral current at zero? What do you think is driving that load if it is not the switch chips? (Or does this switch always use neutral -> load to get it’s power?)
Voltage should be zero when there’s a gap in the circuit… But this wire is bundled with others passing through the walls of my house. Electrical current flowing through those other wires generates a magnetic field which in turn induces a small voltage potential in nearby parallel wires. That induced current is what made my LED glow. Check out this.
@PA94301 Ah - I totally missed the induction part of your statement. Thanks for clarifying, appreciate it!
That’s a great explanation. I’ve been living with the glow by calling it a “night light” :). Can anyone recommend a brand of bulb of this size and base that won’t glow?
Try an incandescent bulb. For me, I had to use the bypass. The original bulbs were halogen and I swapped to LED. Going back wasn’t an option due to heat and electricity.
@iderdlk I had the same problem and tried both a 60W equivalent Cree standard bulb and the Phillips Warm Glow down light. Both of them fixed the glow problem for me. Seems the cheap-o no-name LED bulbs have the glow issue.