LZW30-SN (non-dimmer) switch DOA?

Good evening, all.
I’m looking to install around a dozen smart switches, so I bought one Inovelli LZW30-SN switch (non-dimmer, Red Series), to test. I installed it this afternoon and have been troubleshooting it for the past several hours…
It will light only two of the four 9-watt Cree LED lights that are on this circuit. I tried four Philips 9-watt LED lights, and none of them will light. I put in four 75-watt incandescent bulbs, and none will light. Triple checked that the hot, neutral and ground wires are all secure. Checked that all the bulbs work in a known-working lamp. Put the dumb switch back in and verified that it illuminates all four bulbs. Put the LZW30-SN back in, and nothing has changed. Not sure if this will help with diagnosing the issue, but when the LZW30-SN is turned off (using the Cree LEDs), one bulb never fully turns off. It doesn’t flicker; it just stays very, very dim.
Any ideas? After reading too many posts here, it seems like a super-helpful group. Thank you for any help you’re able to give!

Can you try resetting the switch? Hold the config button for 20s until the LED is solid red.

Thanks for your quick reply! I’ll try that right now.

Drat… Resetting the switch didn’t change anything.

@RossO - Do you have a multimeter? Can you check VAC from the load port?

Yep. I’ll check it now.

0 volts from the load port. 111 volts from the line port.

Even when turning on the switch? I’d expect around 111 VAC…

Just by chance, disconnect the load and test voltage. I believe I have an on/off switch that puts out zero volts when connected to a load, but with no load it had correct voltages. This reminds me that I need to rma that switch.

Whoops. When the switch is on, 93 volts from the load port.

There’s nothing connected to the load port; it’s a single pole installation.

@RossO - It is a bit low… Could be a faulty switch. Almost 20% loss through the switch seems unreasonable. @anon64478871 Any ideas?

@RossO - Lights always connect to the load port in a single pole setup.

I had it wired that way (hot connected to the load port), initially, and not even the Cree LEDs worked. Nada. Re-wired it using the line port.

Panel hot should connect to line port along with neutral connecting to neutral port. The load port will connect to hot feeding the lights.

Load port is connected to nothing. Same wiring as the dumb switch that the LZW30-SN replaced.

@RossO-Can I get a picture? This is what I would expect.

Thank for your help. I’ll take a picture now. This switch is in a 3-switch gang box.

1 Like

…looking at the gang box, the picture isn’t going to be worth much, unless I remove all three switches. My neighbor, who is a master electrician, just re-wired this last week. (He wired a Ring Doorbell for me. He had to cut the gang box out of the wall with a hacksaw, and in doing so, he cut a wire. So he re-wired all three switches.)
The other two switches both appear to be using both the line and load ports. He used the push-in terminals, which I’m not a fan of.
The LZW30-SN, and the dumb switch it replaced, have the hot wire going to the line port screw terminal, the neutral wire going to the neutral screw terminal, and the ground wire going to the ground screw terminal. Nothing is connected to the load port.

@RossO - By chance, was the white wire going to the dumb switch as well?