Hello, So i recently bought some Black Series LZW31Dimmer switches. I have 3 wall scones in my living room that are single pole. 2 on one side have 2 set of wires(on line from the outlet to the switch and one from switch to light )which I replaced (with a Neutral wire and used the provided jumper wire), these work perfectly. However, the 3rd one on the other side I has only one set of wires(ground, black and white). I believe the outlet is directly connected to the light since there is only one set of wires to the switch. I’ve also tested the wires and it seems the white wire is the hot wire, and the black is the load. So I believe this setup does not have the Neutral wire. I have tried to wire it multople ways but any way I wire it it doesnt work. The normal line/load I do works turning it on but then the LED bar starts blinking RED and I cant do anything else with it. The LED bulb also flickers but it had done that before as well. The LED light bulb is 9W (60W equivalent). I just ordered a Bypass to see if that fixes the problem. Im afraid to put the white wire to the Neutral since it seems to be the hot but im not sure and dont want to damage the switch. Anyone possibly know whats wrong or what im missing?
Welcome to the community 
If I understand you, in the problem case you have it wired like:
I believe the issue is with too light a load. While waiting for the bypass is it possible to install a 60 incandescent bulb?
Putting the White wire to the dimmer neutral screw will not work.
While it is always best to but the “hot” wire to the dimmer terminal “Line” in this case it doesn’t matter. So don’t worry about the hot and load wires. If you had a neutral this would not be the case.
John
I have installed the Inovelli switch again with the white wire(which I think is the hot) in the line and the black in the load. I unfortunatley didnt fine a 60 incadescent bulb but I did find a 25W incadescent bulb. I turned it on and it works (Inovelli LED bar is blue). unless it is all the way brightened up (then it the LED bar turns Red and the light turns off). I turned it on again and brightened it up maybe 80-90ish % the way up or so and it is still on and the switch light is still blue. This seemed interesting so I went back and added the original light bulb (Sylvania 9W/60W equivalent) and instead of just clicking the “Turn on” button i held the up button to brighten the dim. It also work to about 80-90ish %. Once i went all the way up it, is when it went to the LED bar blinking RED and the bulb very slightly flickering this time. Want to mention I have not adjusted the max dim yet or set it up on the Smartthings hub. It seems like it could be just that is missing the Bypass?
It seems like it could be just that is missing the Bypass?
Yes, the power for the Z-Wave radio, internal controller and LED has to come from somewhere. Without a neutral connection this power must be “stolen” by running a small current through the load. If the load is too small the controller cannot get enough current to operate. The bypass can provide that current without using up too many watts.
BTW you should put some black tape on your white wire. This will “reassign” the white to the function of a black wire, so the next person will not have to go through what you did.
John
Will do, thank you! I did actually find a 100W bulb and it worked fine with the brightness all the way up. Ill wait for the bypass to arrive and install it. Thanks for your help!