I currently have a switch that is a 3 speed fan control & light dimmer in one. The fan does not have lights below it, rather the light dimmer controls 2 recessed lights in the front of the room. The switch has a line in, a neutral, and 2 load terminals, 1 to the fan and 1 to the light. My question is, will i be able to use this switch to control it in the same manner? or would i need to take the switch to light load wire and run it from the switch to the fan & connect it to the rf module?
Theoretically, can i mount the rf module anywhere as long as its in range of the switch? for example putting the module in the same switch box if there was room. If this is an option, i can easily mount the rf module in my basement directly below the switch.
Thoughts on this?
The problem for you is that the LZW36 effectively transfers the loads for both the fan and the light to the canopy module’s location. That is accomplished by binding the line and one load in the the switch box to provide a constant hot to the canopy module’s location. For you that would result in an orphaned load wire for the lights.
One option would be to swap out the box for one with one more slot so that you could add a switch for the lights. I’m guessing that your thought about moving the canopy to the basement would involve sending the fan and light loads to the basement as well. How well the switch and canopy module communication through a floor is something you may have to test.
Yeah if there’s room you could mount the RF module in the same box as the switch. Or you could put it somewhere else (another box somewhere).
The switch and the canopy module both need unswitched hot feeds. The canopy module would then be where you plug in your loads. The switch however does’t have any load control output.
I have the same situation at my house. I’m waiting for Project Windy City.
I had the exact same scenario. I had enough room on the wall to add a 2 gang old work box. Now I have seperate control of fan, and old lights. Plus I added a light kit to the fan and added scenes so that the switches will control both lights with a double tap. You could install the Zooz Z-Wave Plus S2 Double Switch ZEN30, it will work as a dimmer on the lights, and give you on/off control of the fan.
I wired my overhead lights to the light output of the canopy. You have wattage limitations but mine works perfectly!
As it turns out, my existing switch had the 2 load wires in the switch box, and both went to the fan box. The light load wire passed right thru the fan box, so all i did was eliminate one of the load wires from the switch, and connected the other load wire to the module at the fan. Didnt have to run any wires or anything
However the switch is powering 2 LED recessed can lights and the fan but the lights wont dim, only full brightness or off. Im thinking i need one of the Aeotec bypass resistors because of the low voltage draw from 2 LED bulbs?
Maybe. The bypass is usually indicated with lights that remain dim, but there are some cases where the lights remain at higher levels. I would first check to insure the bulbs in the cans are dimmable. If they are, then give the bypass a try.
Yes the bulbs are dimable, 13w each so 26w load total for the lights.
I have another inovelli dimmer controlling 6 led bulbs in my dining room, the total wattage comes out to around 27w which the minimum load for the switch is 25 i believe, however one of the bulbs never goes out when the rest are turned off, it just stays at the min dim level. I ordered a bypass for this one as i suspect there is current leakage, so if that fixes the issue here then i would think that it would fix it in the other 2 can lights.