I found a few threads dealing with switched outlets, but I didn’t find any mentioning non-neutral switched outlets which presents a few problems. Most notably, you have the same issues you have with a non-neutral light fixtures with an LED in that they need a bypass to work. I’m listing a few solutions below (posted this on a Facebook smart home forum as well), my main question here is… Can I wire an Inovelli Red switch with just line, and neutral, no load? This assumes I’m disabling local control and using the switch as a remote control (see solution 2), here’s my original post:
Non-neutral switched AC outlet solutions.
So, I have a switched AC outlet. Line goes to the outlet, not the switch, so the switch has no neutral. I have a lamp with an LED bulb connected to it. You can see where this is going. I’m going to use an Inovelli Red switch on the outlet with the ramp times set to zero as while I could put a dimmer on an outlet… that just fundamentally bothers me.
Here’s the solutions I can think of:
Put an Aeotec Bypass across the line, and the neutral at the AC outlet. (modifying the lamp makes no sense… if I installed it in the lamp that would work fine BUT… that would be the ONLY lamp I could use with that outlet, if it failed I couldn’t grab another lamp (with an LED light in it) and use that))
(this one is my favorite idea so far) Pigtail line and neutral, and send that to the switch box. In this configuration the outlet is not switched and always has power. The Inovelli switch would then be connected in a neutral scenario, it just wouldn’t have a load connected to it. I could disable local control on the Inovelli switch essentially making it a remote control which could then control a smart plug. I kind of like this solution because then it detaches the lamp from any particular outlet, I don’t have to worry about having an outlet that can only handle 400 watts. This is also the cheapest solution as I already have an Iris outlet that I’m not using. I’m running a Hubitat so control is local and the switch would still work even if my ISP goes down.
Get a Z-Wave outlet and install that, disable local control in the switch, and then have the switch tell the outlet via Z-Wave to turn on or off. I’m working under the assumption that the switch can draw enough current to do its thing since a smart outlet also needs to draw a bit of current to work, but won’t output that since the outlets themselves are isolated on a relay.
Solution 2 is my favorite so far.