I just got a VZW31-SN. I went to replace an existing dimmer switch with this one. I followed the wiring instructions for Line/Load in Separate Boxes (Neutral Wire Setup). In single pole mode, the switch properly controlled the lights. However, when I flipped either of the other two dumb switches, the LED turned off, and pressing the smart switch didn’t do anything.
When I set Parameter 22 to mutli-way with dumb toggle, the LED started flashing green, and the switch started clicking. It reminded me of another switch I had a few years ago, where I think the issue was that the neutral wasn’t properly connected (but who can remember?)
On a whim, I swapped the smart switch with the dumb switch that was wired up the same. Now, the third switch and the smart switch work fine together. But the switch where the original dimmer was/ where I originally installed the smart switch is misbehaving. If I toggle it, the LED on the smart switch stays on, the lights turn off (if they were on), and the lights cannot be turned back on until I flip this switch back to its original state. If I press a button on the smart switch, it clicks as usual. Also, holding the buttons down makes the LED move as expected for the dimmer mode.
I have no idea why this dumb switch is misbehaving like this. Does anybody have any ideas?
Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures, but I could open things back up and take some if they will be helpful.
So with a four-way line and load in separate boxes you have two 3-way switches with a 4-way switch in the middle. One 3-way switch gets the line and the other 3-way switch sends the load.
Please describe how you tested to determine which box the Inovelli goes in.
The first one I tried was the one that had an existing dimmer. It’s wiring matched the far left switch on this diagram
When that one had issues, I tried the other one that had the same wiring.
Question: the dumb switch in question is the one that was originally where the Inovelli currently is (with the original dimmer now out of play). Since you mentioned that there is one 4-way and two 3-ways, I’m guessing that there is a hardware difference that I was unaware of? perhaps I took a 4-way out of the wall and put it where I should have put a 3-way?
(Ok I looked more closely at the diagram, and I clearly see the difference. No way that I messed it up like I had suggested)
You need to test to determine which is the line box. You can’t base an installation on another brand dimmer which may or may not be wired similarly.
When dumb switches cut power to the dimmer, it often means that you put the dimmer in the wrong box. That being said, it does not mean you should try the other box to see what happens. I realize that you already moved the switch around but I didn’t really follow that part of your post. Blindly “trying stuff” can result in a damaged dimmer.
Let’s start with determining the proper box to put the dimmer and then go from there.
Use a meter to test between what you think is the hot and the neutral. Or at a minimum, use it non-contact voltage tester.
You should not really be working in an electrical box without some means to determine whether the box is hot or not. Even if you throw the breaker, you should always test to make sure everything in the box is dead before you start working on it.
I think it’s in your best interest to consult with a licensed electrician to get some help.
Use a meter to test between what you think is the hot and the neutral
Can you elaborate? I have a multimeter, but I’m not sure how to identify which box is which. I do get about 120 volts between the common wire and ground on the Inovelli switch, whether the lights are on or off, so I’m guessing that’s how I know. The dumb switch has a 0V delta when the lights are off, about 84 when they’re on.
Even if you throw the breaker, you should always test to make sure everything in the box is dead before you start working on it.
FWIW, I did test with a non-contact voltage detector before I started messing with anything, but I didn’t check any voltage before starting.
This looks like a line and load in separate boxes. The line box is the one in the sheetrock wall next to the single gang box. Is this where you put the Inovelli?
In that box, pls confirm that the black from the wire-nutted black bundle is attached to the black screw on the 3-way switch.
Yes, that’s where the Inovelli switch is. I forgot to label it in the diagram.
black from the wire-nutted black bundle is attached to the black screw on the 3-way switch.
Do you mean on the Inovelli or on the dumb switch? The other dumb switch in this box is a single pole. The wire-nutted black bundle is connected to one end of that switch and to the Line of the Inovelli
EDIT: In the sheetrock box, are we doing the left position? In the plywood box, are we doing the right position?
Do this. In the sheetrock box, remove the black going to the Inovelli from the switch. (This is the one bundled with the wire nut.) Use your non-contact tester to make sure it’s hot. Do this with the other two switches in all possible positions.
I’m guessing it’s going to be hot all the time, but I’m trying to figure out why you were experiencing the switch losing power with the dumb switches in certain positions.
Something got hosed when you tucked the switches, more than likely.
A couple housekeeping things:
Trim the insulated conductors going into the Inovelli so that no bare copper is exposed. Before putting the switch back into the box, tug on the conductors. You should be able to tug firmly without a conductor coming loose.
For the plywood box, add a box extender so that the front surface of the box is flush with the plywood.
