I am trying to wire a Red Series Dimmer in a 3-way with a GE 46199 aux switch using this wiring diagram:
but the switch doesn’t work and just blinks red.
I tested the wires with my multimeter and non-contact voltage meter and found the following:
- At the Inovelli switch I have 120v at the line and the traveler terminal is all over the place. The NCVM indicates voltage on the traveler. There’s no voltage at the load.
- At the GE switch I have 120v at the neutral terminal and the traveler is also all over the place.
Next I tried re-wiring it as a single pole installation with neutral and it still blinks red and doesn’t control the light. My understanding is that the blinking red happens when the load is below 25 watts but the light I have installed is 33.5 watts.
The light works fine when wired with dumb switches.
I emailed support and they told me to post here.
So a couple observations. How comfortable are you with what you have electrically? I’m asking because the diagram you posted is for a non-neutral installation where power starts at the light. That may very well be the case. However, you stated that you 2nd attempt was to wire it as a neutral installation. If you truly have a non-neutral installation, it is physically impossible to wire it as a switched neutral installation.
The second thing is that presuming you do have a non-neutral, you’re trying to wire in a switched smart light fixture. Smart lights require full time power to work properly. Now if you had a neutral installation, you could put the dimmer in the smart bulb mode which will provide constant power to the light. You could then control the light via the switch via scenes without power to the light being cut.
The only way around this may not be in accordance with the electrical code. You’d have to wire the light constantly hot, and then run the hot and neutral to the switch to power it. That would work in theory, but depending on the location, that may not be code compliant. If you are in the US, each habitable room requires a switched light, which you are removing by wiring the light in this fashion. You’d also have to check your local code to insure that you can wire a light constantly hot. That won’t work with a non-neutral.
Thanks for responding. I misspoke, it should have said non-neutral. Here is the diagram I used:
It still doesn’t explain why the light switch wouldn’t work at all. I have another smart light wired in the configuration above and it works. The smart light can’t turn on when the switch is off so I just set up the routines to first turn the switch on and then set the color of the bulb.
The first thing I would check would be to insure the switch’s Power Type is set to non-neutral.
Stay with the 2-way until you get it working. Make sure the SwItch Type is set a a 2-way.
If the parameters are set correctly and the switch is wired properly, then the switch may not be getting enough power via the non-neutral. I’d try a bypass.
I didn’t know that switching the switches power type was a thing. I didn’t see that in the manual but I found it on the site after your comment. Thanks. I will try this.