Red Dimmer - Lights don't turn all the way off

I have 10 Red Dimmers and 5 Red Switches. I just installed\moved one to the bathroom, where it powers 8 Edison LED light bulbs. Short version is that in the off position, the lights stay illuminated just a little bit. I had this problem once before (with my Inovellis), and was told it was the brand of bulbs I was using. At the time I swapped the bulbs to (several) different Edison bulbs and the problem went away. But I installed this switch in the bathroom now, and these bulbs are pretty specific (light color and brightness is a big issue in my house), and I am once again faced with this low light issue. Is there a way to get the switch to go to a lower or off power setting? Everyone’s first question seems to be about neutral, so; The switch is tied into the neutral. I read on another thread where someone solved this problem by swapping line and load. I just want to make sure I am not going to cause an electrical fire or anything, so I was hoping to get an endorsement from someone @ Inovelli before trying that.

Note: I had a similar problem about 6 months ago in two bedrooms with Zooz Zen 27 dimmers, that was resolved by switching to Zen 22 dimmers. They knew about the problem and suggested the change. It had something to do with the 3 way design (even though I wasn’t using a 3 way setup). This was their email,

“The ZEN27 switch allows for a very small amount of current to pass as part of the unique 3-way solution. Alternatively, we can suggest trying the ZEN22 dimmer which may work better for you since it uses a different 3-way solution and doesn’t require any current to pass in the off position.”

I wound up using Zen 24s which are basically the same switch with a stick instead of a paddle, and haven’t had the problem since.

Any suggestions? Thoughts on swapping Line and Load?


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@gijosh28 - The solution to your problem is to install the Aeotec Bypass at the load. You’ll tie the hot and neutral at the light with the Aeotec Bypass. It’ll solve your dim lights. The neutral connected to the switch isn’t always the solution. It helps on most cases, but there is still a few of us that needed the bypass in order to have the lights fully off.

@harjms is likely correct. However I would first verify that parameters 21 and 22 are set correctly (since you moved this switch from another location)

21 = 1 (neutral configuration)
22 = 0 ( single pole configuration)

I am a little lost on how this wires in. Can it be installed in the switch box? Do I just put it in line on the Load?

@gijosh28 - You can wire it into the back of the switch connecting the load and neutral together. My box was a little tight, so I just wired it into the light fixture. Also make sure you check out @JohnRob advice before ordering the bypass.

I will check those now. I will need to install it in the switch box because this single light switch powers two different vanity lights on opposite walls in the bathroom.

@gijosh28 - Just FWIW, it doesn’t matter which light you install it behind, but totally understand if it’s the hollywood light bar style and is a pain to pull off…Just make sure you secure it tightly. The bypass wire is really, really thin. You may need to make a pigtail from your load and use a wirenut to secure the wire to the light, but also the bypass.

If I understand correctly, I have them set for Neutral and Load Only.

I ordered the bypass, but because of the virus it won’t get here for a week or so.

If I understand correctly, I have them set for Neutral and Load Only.

Yes this is correct. One caution both these parameters have had reports of the settings not “taking” so you may change them then change them back, and if possible read them with your hub just to be sure.

Interesting thing about LED’s the power they require to go on dimly or flash on then off is very low. So even with the dimmer off some of the internal noise filtering will allow enough current to partially light the LED’s. See this LED Video.

Not sure if the bypass will solve this problem so let us know when you get yours installed.


I had the same issue when I first installed my Inovelli Red Dimmer switch. I had 2 LED bulbs in the overhead light it was controlling. Turned it on, worked great, turned it off and the bulbs continued to have a low glow.

Today I found that after install, my ground wire on the top of the switch (not neutral, live, or load) had come loose and was not connected. When I reconnected the ground wire, the low dim during at off state went away. (99% sure, need to wait until it is really dark out to confirm)

Something to check, make sure all 4 wires are connected, neutral, live, load AND ground on the top of the switch.

Hope that helps.

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Update: Nope, I was was wrong. It is dark now and the blub is still slightly glowing when off.

Hopefully there is another solution.

@BuilderTroy -

Yea - I had it in there but edited it out of my last post because I didn’t want to come off as complaining.

To get these switches working correctly, I feel like there are 3 options.

  1. Fix it in firmware so when a neutral is used, there is zero current leak between load and neutral. (Not sure if this is possible but I thought that was the reason for the neutral wire option)

  2. Make sure every LED installed is on the certification list. Maybe there is a bigger certification list that I have not found yet, but the one I found on the site has less than 10 options on it. Not sure that will cover all cases. Outside of that list, I will need to start doing my own testing of bulbs and sticking with one that works.

  3. Buy a $15 bypass. On a $39 switch, which my wife already thinks is too expensive (but I am winning that battle :slight_smile: ), the value proposition proposition gets a lot tougher with the bypass. This option is my last resort. I am looking to do my whole house and was hoping this switch would be the one. I love the potential of the switch. I am going to be challenged if I need to drop another $400 on bypass accessories.

Unfortunately, I think option 2 is out of reach with all the possibilities of bulbs. There’s not just 3 manufacturers and all bulbs shapes and sizes would have to be tested. Inovelli could certify a major brand (partner), but then all the rest of us who want cheap bulbs from Lowe’s will complain.

I don’t know enough of the internals to say if option 1 is plausible or not.

$15 on one circuit isn’t bad. $15 on 20 circuits sucks.

@harjms Yea, that is fair and I don’t think invelli needs to be responsible for testing every bulb. I am more than happy to chip and report results to a central area/database so we can get a good list going.

I would be interested to hear what the feedback on option 1 is if it is possible or not. If this switch can do it physically, than it would be a very positive differentiator from other switches (Lutron). I am half tempted to pull my switch apart, hook it up to the oscilloscope and put it through it’s paces.

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I’ve seen this issue come and go and at least one possibility is coupling from the wiring. This video shows the issue that could happen. I believe this is not a cure for many of the issues but it is an interesting situation.

LED’s on with no power

So just thinking … is it possible the line and neutral are reversed coming into your 1st box? Not sure it would matter but it’s worth a check.