Using Inovelli Dimmer to control Smart Bulb

A common configuration for smart homes is the use of an Inovelli dimmer with a Smart Bulb. However wiring such a configuration is not always obvious. In the included diagram several configurations are provided as a example.
To help understanding the diagrams a few concepts are important.

Association control path:
The Red inovelli dimmers have the capability to create associations with some other smart devices (could be a switch or a smart bulb etc)
Simply put an association is a Z-Wave communication path directly between the dimmer and target device (smart bulb etc). Directly is meant literally. The association communications do not require the Hub to be involved. So if the hub were off for some reason the dimmer to smart bulb association will remain operational.

The capability of this association is determined by the combined capabilities of the dimmer and target device. Typically ON/OFF and Dim control are available via association.
Having an association does not preclude using the normal dimmer to hub commutation.

Dimmer Internal Relay
The inovelli Red dimmer has an internal relay that when disabled will provide power out of the “LOAD” terminal 100% of the time regardless of the switch “position”. Using this relay capability it can be easy to switch between a Smart Bulb and a Normal (not so smart) bulb. No wiring is changed only the enable / disable of the relay needs to be changed.

I hope this helps folks understand and use these capabilities.



Sharing my personal experiences with Phillips Hue Bulbs:

I was excited to use my LZW31-SN Red Series Dimmer to control 4 recessed cans with Phillips Hue White & Color bulbs.

I started off with a normal wiring scheme depicted above, disabling the internal relay on my switch, using my Hub to control the lights, but when I dimmed the Hue bulbs below 50%, something would happen where the bulbs would start flickering or just turn off completely by itself, and they became unresponsive until I power cycled the switch (using the switch air gap or via my hub & z-wave).

My solution was… at the switch, I put the black wire from the lights that normally would go into the “Load” hole on the switch, into the second “Line” hole (nothing going into Load). This closed the circuit, always providing power to the recessed cans. The switch internal relay is still disabled, and I’m still controlling the bulbs with my Hubitat Elements hub and the amazing scene capabilities of the LZW31-SN.

Yes, this means the only way to cut power is at the breaker, but now I have no issues with my Hue Bulbs, and a spouse no longer hating the smart home setup :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes: