I’ve bought one white series for a single pole switch and it’s worked great. Before buying another white series and 2 aux switches, I’m looking for some advice/clarification to make sure it will work for my wiring.
I’ve reviewed the wiring documentation listed below but I have a few questions
1 - The table seems to indicate that a 4way, non-neutral is supported with the aux switch, but then lower in the actual diagram/wiring sections, it only lists 3 way neutral, 3 way non-neutral, and 4 way neutral. Is a 4-way non-neutral supported with the aux switches?
2 - In the 4-way neutral diagram, it shows off line and load in separate switch boxes. Is that the only supported method? To the best of my knowledge, I believe my line/load are in the same box. (EDIT: I see the image now on the website has an option for line/load in same box)
Can anyone provide advice on whether the white series at my line/load box and then the aux switches at the two others would work for my wiring setup?
I’ve attached what I believe is a diagram of my wiring, and some pictures at each box.
That’s just how the wiring diagrams are laid out. You’ll see the same thing for the other series. You can add additional Aux’s by providing the same traveler and line to additional Aux’s. They’re just not diagrammed separately beyond the 3-way.
I’m a bit unfamiliar with these diagrams, so apologizes for the dumb questions. The neutral 3-way diagram is clear and has an option with the line/load in the same box.
I’m not as familiar with the white/black checkered wire in the non-neutral diagram. Is that intended to represent the line wire from the 120V breaker? It still looks like to me that the diagram is outlining a scenario where the line is effectively passed through the first switch box, and then connects into the common black screw on the second switch. However, my scenario is that both the load/line enter from the breaker/fixture only in the first switch box.
For what its worth, pretty sure this is my current setup
With non-neutral wiring, The white/black wiring is the white conductor that is carrying the line from the light to switch box. It’s just drawn as a white/black to signify that even though it is a white conductor, it is hot.
Sorry, but I’m not sure what you mean.
From your title, you have a non-neutral installation. This means that the hot and neutral first come into the light box, not the switch. This means that between the first switch and the light there is a 2-conductor (exclusive of the ground) that is carrying the constant hot from the light and returning (over the other conductor) the switched hot back to the light. Consequently, there is no neutral in the first (or any) switch box. Is this what you have?
I could be mistaken, but I think the diagram on the specification of the current switches is what I have?
I don’t reasonably have access to the light fixture to really know for sure. I have other switch boxes in my house for other lights that very clear have white neutral wires. But this specific 4-way switch appears to not have them, from what I can tell in looking at each switch box.
In the diagram for the Lightoiler OSR-3, it appears to match my original diagram. The #1 switch has both the line from the breaker, and the output load to the switch. But that doesn’t match the Inovelli diagram and what you are describing. You are describing where the white/black wire to the first switch comes from the fixture first, but I don’t think that’s how mine is wired, but I don’t know for 100% certainty.
I’ve used the phrase “non-neutral” because there isn’t a neutral wire in my switch boxes, but in this image there could be one directly to the fixture? I’m not sure how that impacts the ability to use an Inovelli switch as a replacement of the current state.
In this image below from the OSR3, you can see the line and load in one switch, and then the fixture gets neutral alone (i.e. not to the switch boxes) from the breaker.
Sorry, but I can look at a diagram and tell you what THAT is, but I can’t tell you if that is what YOU have. I understand that you’ve tried to explain your wiring, but I can’t tell you that what you have matches a diagram based on your description alone.
Do you have Romex or individual conductors in conduit? The drawing you posted pertains to the latter. With Romex, a minimum of two conductors run together. But in the drawing you posted, there is a single conductor (the neutral) running to the light and a single conductor (hot/line) running to the first switch box. The drawing you posted is a non-neutral configuration, as the only place the neutral exists is at the light.
In a non-neutral config, the Inovelli needs the contact hot and the switched hot going back to the light. Both of those are present in the rightmost switch box in your drawing, so to answer your question, the Inovelli would work in a non-neutral config for the drawing you posted. You will have to determine if the drawing matches your wiring.
If you are unfamiliar with electrical wiring or uncertain about your configuration, you should consult with a licensed electrician.
I appreciate the feedback. I do think I’ll make a few calls before purchasing anything. It’s unfortunate because all of the other switches in my house are very straightforward and have neutral wires in every box
