I have wired several of the new Thread white switches without an issue, but I have one circuit that has several 3-way and 4-way sub circuits controlling lights. They all work at baseline without issue. I replaced one 3-way switch (making sure it was where the line comes in) and that worked. I then replaced another 3-way switch on another sub-circuit, also works to control a different set of lights. Then did it to a third, circuit kept tripping. I removed the new one, circuit kept tripping. In the end I removed all and put back the dumb switches, all works again. Is there a limit to the smart switches on one 12A circuit? I feel confident that they were wired correctly. Thanks!
Where are you located? In the US, 120V circuits are typically 15A and 20A.
No, there is not a limit to the number of switches that you can have on a branch circuit. The switches themselves draw very little power, it’s the devices they are switching that contribute the lion’s share to the load.
For the switch leg that keeps tripping the breaker, please describe further. 2-way, multi-way? Neutral, non-neutral? What is the switch controlling? i.e what is the load?
If you simply switched out a dumb switch with a smart switch the breaker is tripping as a result, then there is either an issue with the switch or it’s wired incorrectly.
You are right, 15A. I am going to install them again and see if the issue replicates. All were connected to the neutrals (which are all together).
The first is a three way connected to LED outdoor light. I have it as line coming in, then the two travelers, and the other box with the dumb three-way goes to the light.
The second is a three way to another LED light, this one set to dimmer, and set up the same way where the smart switch has the line coming in to it and the load (light) is from the other box.
Finally, the last is a 3-way switch to LED slights, on/off, again set the same as the first. All have dumb off/on three-way switches left attached to the other boxes. The same circuit has other non-smart switches controlling other branches with 3-way and 4-way switches that I am not planning to use these on. I was just surprised that the circuit was getting tripped.
Should the neutral not always be the white neutral from the box? I am connecting the red traveler always to the red traveler and the black traveler to the load, with the line from the box connected to line.
With a neutral configuration where the line and neutral originate at the switch box, the white is typically the neutral. However, in a non-neutral configuration we’re a hot only comes into the switch box, the white is usually the hot and the black is the switched load going back to the light.
When is the breaker dripping? Is it immediately after you install a switch and throw the breaker?
When you first opened the box (before you changed anything), were all the white wires nutted together in there or were they attached to switches?
Initially two switches worked perfectly, I added the third, then they worked for a moment, then the breaker tripped. I removed the new one and the breaker kept tripping when reset. Thus, I removed all of them and put back the dumb switches. Now everything works as it did before
They were all nutted together, not attached. I added the pigtails that come in the kit and attached them to new switches (two in one box, one in the another box, one for each of the smart switches on the three branches I am trying to control).
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That is a little tough to diagnose remotely. I would start by adding one switch and see how it goes for a couple days. Then add another, rinse and repeat. You have a wiring fault somewhere.
Are you wiring primarily based on sheath colors or have you verified (using a multimeter) what each wire is in each box?
With switch boxes in particular, wire sheath colors should be considered meaningless until verified (green/bare being a pretty safe exception).
It’s very new construction, and all the travelers are labeled (black and red pair) and the feed is pretty clear coming from a common black. The out to the light is also pretty clear in the other box and is usually labeled “*** switch.” I’ve added one switch back, working fine for now.
Yep, let that sit for a few days. Based on your description of removing the switches, something may be happening when you tuck things back into the box.