Thank you for reaching out. I am not sure what I have at the light as there are a set of nine recessed lights in the set up, but yes I just have a 3-wire romex to each switch. Maybe the voltage readings will help…
Switch box 1:
Black wire constant 120 v and the others zero no mater the position of switch 2.
Switch box 2 (with switch 1 in the “off” position):
White 120v rest zero
Switch box 2 (with switch 1 in the “on” position):
Red 120v rest zero
Thanks. AFAIK, there is only one possible wiring schema with what you’ve described. The voltage readings don’t help make it any easier. Since you have to get to the first light to re-wire, you can put the Inovelli in either position, wiring accordingly. If you can’t get to the first light, then you’re dead in the water.
Sorry that it’s wired that way. If the work was done a few years ago, it should have been considered new work and complied with the code that requires a neutral in the first switch box. But that’s not what you have, unfortunately.
I appreciate the feedback, and no need to be sorry. I have been reading through a lot of posts and most mention you need to find the “constant” hot so that is why I thought providing the voltage readings might assist. Maybe someone else that has a similar set up will come across and have some thoughts…being that I am new, feel free to tag others that you might think could be of assistance.
Yes, ordinarily you do need to find the constant hot, as that would be where you would put the Inovelli. The idea is that you would place the dimmer there as a non-neutral and then use an Aux in the other position. In your wiring scheme, however, you have to re-wire at the light to get the appropriate connections to the Aux. So in your case finding the hot doesn’t matter so much.
It can be done…but it will require re-wiring; to either re-route the constant hot or even re-wiring to install two Inovelli dimmers…
Yep, two things at the light.
1 - Send a constant hot to the Aux
2 - Connect a single traveler from the Inovelli side over to the Aux.
Looks like this:
@Bry thank you for this. On another note, I do not know how to link to another thread, but found one that might be similar.
Do you think its worth a shot?
Solution I wanted to share (and also get everyone’s thoughts on):
In Box 1, I installed a GE aux switch:
In Box 2, I installed an Inovelli Red w/ scene (LZW31-SN):
This solution worked for me and I am hoping it will help someone else (as I spent about 2 days trying to figure this out). The GE switch in Box 1 works fine, although it can take a couple of seconds to respond. I am going to try and reduce the on/off ramp time on the Inovelli to see if that speeds up the response time from the GE switch.
That would work as long as you’re good with the Inovelli being in box 2.
Thanks @harjms - I am indifferent as to where the Inovelli is installed.
So I would install the Aux in “box 1” and Inovelli in “box 2”. IBased on my wiring, do you have an idea how to interpret? I know the black wire in box 1 is the power, but what is traveler a and b? And in box two what would be the load? Presumably traveler a and b would have to match box 1?
Switch box 1:
Black wire always had 120 v and the others zero no mater the position of switch 2.
Switch box 2 (with switch 1 in the “off” position):
White 120v rest zero
Switch box 2 (with switch 1 in the “on” position):
Red 120v rest zero
So in box 1, connect BLK wire to neutral port of Aux switch. Also connect the Red wire to the second hole of the neutral port on aux switch. Connect remaining wht wire to the traveler port.
In box 2, connect the Red wire to the Line port of Inovelli. Connect the BLK wire to the Load port, and wht wire to the Traveler port.
Secure the connections tightly. Also be sure to connect the bare wire to the Grounds on both switches.
Configure the switch for Nonneutral and 3 way momentary via config button or include to the hub and set via parameters.
@Bry - I’m really hoping it’s tied RED-RED, WHT-WHT between the two sets of ROMEX…hopefully. Definitely worth metering or taking a look at the light box.
Yep. That seems like it should work as long as the wiring matches the dumb switch diagram I posted. Worst case you can continuity test end to end if you can’t get at the box.
I like that approach. Will have to do a new drawing if this works.
Thanks so much for all the feedback. How do I test continuity? I will try tomorrow and hopefully this will work.
You’d touch one lead from the multimeter to the Red wire (copper) in Box 1 and use the other lead to touch the Red wire (copper) in Box 2. Ensure the meter is measuring Ohms. Verify you seem >0 Ohms or listen for the speaker. If the distance is too long to reach between the boxes, then you’ll need to use a longer wire to reach it or, if comfortable, tie the RED and WHT together in Box 1 and use the two leads in Box 2 to test continuity of the wires.
This is with the breaker OFF.
Sometimes in life…just gotta roll with the voltage.
Circuit “open” vice “shut”.
Here is an updated drawing based on @harjms logic. This presumes that the connections in the light box are the same as in the top right diagram.
@harjms @Bry - I wired all up and working but not perfect. maybe it is the configuration of the switch. I have set it up non neutral with aux switch. Is that the same as what you say above “nonneutral” and “3 way momentary”? Or is that a different setting? I
The inovelli switch works as expected and the aux switch “sort of” works. There is a delay and sometimes when you hit the switch it likes it almost didn’t register and if you hit again it will turn on or off. Also, if you shut it off and quickly try to turn on again it does not seem to register. Almost like there is a delay / waiting period before you can give it the next command.
Any thoughts?
What is your load and approximate wattage?
So the Aux works, but intermittently?
Yes, it should be non-neutral and 3-way momentary.
What hub are you using?
What Aux are you using?
