3 WAY WIRING HELP - Red Series Dimmer - No Neutral

Yep. That seems like it should work as long as the wiring matches the dumb switch diagram I posted. Worst case you can continuity test end to end if you can’t get at the box.

I like that approach. Will have to do a new drawing if this works.

Thanks so much for all the feedback. How do I test continuity? I will try tomorrow and hopefully this will work.

You’d touch one lead from the multimeter to the Red wire (copper) in Box 1 and use the other lead to touch the Red wire (copper) in Box 2. Ensure the meter is measuring Ohms. Verify you seem >0 Ohms or listen for the speaker. If the distance is too long to reach between the boxes, then you’ll need to use a longer wire to reach it or, if comfortable, tie the RED and WHT together in Box 1 and use the two leads in Box 2 to test continuity of the wires.

This is with the breaker OFF.

Sometimes in life…just gotta roll with the voltage.

Circuit “open” vice “shut”.

Here is an updated drawing based on @harjms logic. This presumes that the connections in the light box are the same as in the top right diagram.

@harjms @Bry - I wired all up and working but not perfect. maybe it is the configuration of the switch. I have set it up non neutral with aux switch. Is that the same as what you say above “nonneutral” and “3 way momentary”? Or is that a different setting? I

The inovelli switch works as expected and the aux switch “sort of” works. There is a delay and sometimes when you hit the switch it likes it almost didn’t register and if you hit again it will turn on or off. Also, if you shut it off and quickly try to turn on again it does not seem to register. Almost like there is a delay / waiting period before you can give it the next command.

Any thoughts?

What is your load and approximate wattage?

So the Aux works, but intermittently?

Yes, it should be non-neutral and 3-way momentary.

What hub are you using?

What Aux are you using?

there are 9 recessed lights - approx wattage 76.5W in total.

Correct, aux works but intermittently. the hub is 2gig and the aux is the GE 46199.

Is “3 way momentary” a different setting than aux switch?

Recommend setting parameters 21/22 via the hub vs. from the switch.

3-way momentary is an Aux Switch. The other choice is toggle (in 3-way mode). Toggle is the dumb switch.

In addition to @harjms comments, you can try reducing the max brightness at least temporarily. Or if the bulbs are swappable in the recessed lights, try temporarily swapping for incandescent to see if results change.

I do occasionally see a small delay in getting ready for subsequent presses. I don’t know anything about 2Gig, but I’m on ST and ST’s cloud can factor in a delay.

Thanks so much. It is workable and better than having to get someone in here to re wire etc.

If your switches support it you could try using Z-Wave association to create a virtual 3-way switch which should give you the option for neutral in each switch box? With this setup the second switch would not be physically controlling the lighting circuit, instead the second switch would be controlling the first switch wirelessly through the Z-Wave network. From what I understand with Z-Wave association the switches will wirelessly communicate directly between each other without the need for a hub so if the hub is off line the 3-way switch will still work.

Fyi, I have not tried setting up Z-Wave association yet so I don’t have any experience in this and don’t know what the drawbacks would be. I do plan on trying this in a couple months because I have basement lights that I want to control from the top of my stairs and do not want to run Romex between the switches.
I don’t know if it is better to have a neutral and use Z-Wave association for virtual 3-way or have a 3-way setup without a neutral. Someone else might be able to chime in on this.