3-way with no Neutral

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I haven’t disabled the local control on the right yet, but looks like it’s not working.

When i turn off switch on the left, right switch looses power. and no switch combination turns on the lights (from either side).

I’m confused.

What device is on the left?
What device is on the right?

Are they wired as shown in the latest diagram? It requires the red wire to change from the dimmer/switch load to direct connection to ground.

If the wires exactly match your original post, the right side is powered all the time.

Perhaps the original post diagram was close but not exact. If so we’ll need to do more testing.

John

I have an LZW30-SN on the left and i’ve tried the LZW30 & GE 46201 on the right and i wired them per your last diagram, yes, with the common wire to the line and the other 2 to the neutral of the switch.

i cant confirm how the light fixture is wired, but the wires out of the boxes seamed to match that first picture i found from the inovelli examples. I have 3 wires coming into that right switch box: white, black and red, and the white is the one that was on the dumb switch’s black screw.

On the left, i have the red plugged into the traveler, neutral bundle into neutral, power into the line, and the other black (from the same romex as the red wire) plugged into the load.

When i turn the left switch OFF, i get no voltage on any of the wires on the right. When the left switch is ON, i get voltage out of the Black & Red on the right.

I think i found the error, i need to plug in line AND the red traveler to the Line plug of the switch on the left

On the left, i have the red plugged into the traveler, neutral bundle into neutral, power into the line, and the other black (from the same romex as the red wire) plugged into the load.

Unless I’m missing something your description does not match my 2nd diagram.

I do not know if the LZW30 is capable of being associated with another switch.

I do know the LZW30-SN is capable of association.

Keep in mind that the way John drew this out is that the relay has to be disabled on your non-load switch. I’m not sure if GE can do that.

EDIT: Never mind – there’s no load attached… duh. Sorry for the confusion.

In addition, I’m not sure the Association Tool will work with non-Inovelli/Ilumin products (I don’t have Hubitat so I can’t confirm this, but in ST that’s how it was built).

If you don’t disable the relay on the non-load switch, it may ruin the switch as well as the primary one as they were not meant to be wired together to work mechanically (only as remotes or via Association).

Yes, it can be :slight_smile:

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Ok, i think i’m close.

i plugged in the red and hot wires into the line of the left switch. Now i have power to the black and red wires on the right when the left is OFF.

When i plug Red & White into nuetral on the Right, & red into LINE: i can control the lights from the left but the switch looses power when the lights are ON.

When i plug in Red & Black in Neutral on the right and white into LINE (white was the wire that was on the black screw) : right switch stays on no matter what i do on the left, but no combination turns on the lights.

When i plug in Red & White in Neutral on the right and Black into LINE : right switch gets no power matter what i do on the left, but no combination turns lights OFF (lights stay on).

I don’t think you have what the diagram shows. Can you print out the diagram and put a check mark on every junction you connect to be sure you have them correct?

Sorry, i’m not following.

Do you mean your diagram or my original diagram? Not sure what you want me to mark.

Here are some pictures if it helps:

RIGHT:

LEFT:

(extra wires from 4 gang box)

Right looks OK.

The left …

I can’t identify the specific wire from your photo (far too many wires).

Can you identify the power coming in? Are they a black and white?

Can you identify the three wire cable (black,red,white) going to the light fixture?

Please verify these are the correct colors. If these are the right colors I think I can help you.

John

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Thank you again for all your help!!

Here is a better picture:

Black, Red, White going to the light is blue circle.

Power coming in is Black & white in yellow circle (all the hot wires from the gang box are bundled together).

I’m a little confused.

Could perhaps yellow circle be the power in
and
The Blue circle be the 3 wire to the light?

John

Yes, that is correct.

OK

So:

The Black from the 3-wire cable (blue circle) connects to the neutral under the yellow wire nut. You can take it out of the “Load” terminal on the dimmer and use 2nd at the dimmer neutral to connect them.

Now the PIA connection. You will have to remove the white of 3-wire cable. That is likely in that group of white wires connected together.
Then connect the 3-wire white you just separated and connect it to the dimmer “LOAD” terminal.

You should be all set then.

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Do i still leave the neutral wire from the innoveli plugged into the neutral bundle after even after i remove the white wire?

Doesn’t the neutral have to come from the same circuit?

Do i still leave the neutral wire from the innoveli plugged into the neutral bundle after even after i remove the white wire?

Yes the white bundle still remains connected to the inovelli “neutral” terminal.

Doesn’t the neutral have to come from the same circuit?

It is. Perhaps I don’t understand your question.

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Ok great. I just wanted to make sure since i’m removing light’s white wire from the neutral bundle that i’m still good to use it for the switch’s neutral terminal.

And I leave the red wire from the light still into the LINE terminal of the switch?

Man, you’re a genius!! That worked!! (left the red plugged into line)

It’s working with both the LZW30 & the GE 46201! That is amazing, I can’t thank you enough!! There’s no danger or fire risk to wiring it this way, right?

Now i’m off to re-add it to the hub & do the associations.

I’m waiting to hear back from @EricM_Inovelli on that one: [HOW-TO] Using the Z-Wave Association Tool in SmartThings

@JohnRob Quick side note: does this mean that I now have a neutral on that right side that i can safely draw power from for an outlet for a tablet ? (i read that it’s not safe to wire a neutral from an outlet to a ground)

Right

Quick side note: does this mean that I now have a neutral on that right side that i can safely draw power from for an outlet for a tablet ? (i read that it’s not safe to wire a neutral from an outlet to a ground)

While its technically possible I would advise against it. I don’t know where this power feed came from and a receptacle should be able to provide 15 Amps by law. Law being your local codes and the NEC (National Electric Code).

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