Ok, that makes sense. So what you have is hot going to the light. It is sent to the 4-way box over the white. The neutral stays at the light box. The hot white that comes into the 4-way box is sent to one of the 3-way boxes over the white of the 3-wire. In that 3-way box, the white is connected to the common terminal where the hot is switched back to the 4-way over the red and black travelers. Then on to the other switch probably over the red and black travelers. At that other 3-way, the white is connected to the common terminal, routed back to the 4-way box and then up to the light via the black on the 2-wire. Since I canât see into the 4-way box, this is my best guess.
Not sure I followed that, but here is what I suggest. Wire this in two stages. Letâs get it working as a 2-way, which you may have already done. Then we can focus on the Auxâs.
Here is a 2-way non-neutral. The Inovelli goes in place of the 4-way switch.
Your hot is coming into the box via the white on the 2-wire. That white goes to Line. The black from the 2-wire goes to the Load. This may be what you did. You may or may not need a bypass at the light depending on your Load. That should work for the 2-way part.
So this is just from the 2-wire. Leave the two 3-wire alone/disconnected in that box for now.
Sorry I couldnât reply back yesterday as it stated I had exceeded my post allowance.
Bry I think you are 100% correct.
White from light is hot and that was nutted off over to the second switch which was terminated at the common black screw in the second box.
The switch is now working correctly and dimming properly.
I am left with the other two AUXâs to connect.
In the box with the Inovelli switch I have the two blacks the two reds and the white which was connected to the hot/line previously.
So the Auxâs need two conductors run to them. I presume that the two 3-wires in the Inovelli box are going to each of the 3-way switches, as that makes sense based on what youâve found. So you will use 2 of the three conductors in each of the 3-wires to connect the Auxâs to the Inovelli. This is the non-neutral diagram using Aux switches:
Connect the red from each of the 3-wires to the Traveler terminal on the Inovelli. (Use the 2 backstab holes.) At the Aux boxes, connect the red to the Traveler terminal.
The blacks on the 3-wires get connected to the Line on the Inovelli. Since youâre one backstab hole short, I would make a (black) pigtail and connect it to the other Inovelli Line backstab hole (the other is taken by the white hot). On the other end wrap with the blacks on the 3-wires. At the Aux boxes, connect the black to the Neutral terminal.
The whites on the 3-wires arenât used. Cap them off with wire nuts at the Aux boxes and the Inovelli box.
Parameter 21 = Set Value to 1 (# of Bytes = 1)
Parameter 22 = Set Value to 1 (# of Bytes = 1)
???
I see when the Inovelli is on the AUX switches do nothing but when the Inovelli or lights are off and I use the AUX I hear the Inovelli click a couple of times.
I used a model 2002 GE and a model 2004. I could not turn the lights on or off or dim with the 2002 model. I swapped it out for a home-seer model and the same problem. I went through my collection and found another GE 2004 and swapped the home-seer and 2002 model out and worked perfectly. ALL switches turn off on and dim.
[GE Enbrighten Add-On #12723 ]
This one when I purchased it back in 2016 has a model number of ZW2002
None of these work at all I tried a few They did turn the light on but not off they also would not dim.
I purchased the same model in 2018 and it has a model number of ZW2004 and this one works fine
[GE Enbrighten Add-On #46199 ]
This one appears to be a newer model of the one above I donât think I have any of these.
[HomeSeer Add-On #HS-WA100+ ]
I have a few of these but when I put these one they didnât do anything didnât turn the light on or off maybe this needs a different parameter?
Kind of interesting that different AUX models work differently.
Either way you guys have been absolutely awesome. I did give up at one point but when âharjmsâ said definitely can be done I persevered.
You guys are better than my electricians I consulted who said it is totally impossible to put these in without neutrals even after looking at the wiring.
I have a ton more of these to do but now I know it can be done I hope to be able to tackle it on my own.
Thank you to all of you you are a credit to Inovelli.
I tried doing the program back to no neutral and momentary and that is the issue. It turns out if the switch looses power the momentary and other setting stay but the AC Power Type doesnât stay.
I have tried to test this again by turning off the breaker and again it does the same thing and looses the setting.
Yeah thatâs definitely weird. Iâm on mobile with limited time now so admittedly I didnât scroll through the entire post, but what hub are you using?
