I don’t believe so. My house was built in 1992.
Dang…just another thing I was thinking about…both my malfunctioning 3ways are either GFCI or arci in the panel…
It’s just strange bc I can’t quite figure out the common denominator as to why people are experiencing this as I’ve wired up fairly similar replicas to what is being reported and can’t replicate this.
I do have a hunch that multiple lights may be to blame here as everyone who seems to have this issue has more than one bulb connected to the 3-Way, but I also can’t prove it either bc I’ve wired up multiple bulbs and it worked fine. Then I thought it may be a distance thing… So I bought 200’ of wire and tried that. Same scenario. Worked great.
I’m hoping one of these combinations finds something. I do find it interesting that the aux switch works. That would definitely lead me to believe something is wonky with the MCU firmware.
Is the MCU firmware user upgradeable if that can resolve the issue?
Yes, it is OTA upgradeable for sure!
My issue with the GE add-on switch not being able to turn off the Red Series switch downstairs is controlling 4 lights. Where the add-on switch in the kitchen that can turn off the Red Series switch 95% of the time (every once in a while it doesn’t then I try again and it does) is only controlling one old 8’ florescent fixture with 2 bulbs. I haven’t tried any dumb switches yet since my OCD hates a switch in the off position when the lights are on.
Ah, let me counter you there. I only have it connected to 1 bulb and I have the exact same issue.
I have an add-on switch that I wasn’t planning to use in that location but will try now.
Yup, works fine with add-on switch although I still have the issue of the light staying dim even when both switches are turned off.
Ah dang, ok. Well that stinks. So the light now “turns on and off” correctly, but it still stays on a bit (dim)?
@iderdik – I finally got the G8 sockets today, so I’m going to wire those up and test them out tomorrow.
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Yeah, would rather have the add-on in another location though so hoping we can figure out why the dumb switch isn’t working.
More urgently for me though would be solving the dim issue i.e. ensuring the current is completely turned off. All my bulbs are dimmer bulbs and I bought a bunch of on/off red series switches so I expect I’d experience this issue throughout the house.
Which bulbs are you using again? Sorry if you already said it, I didn’t see it 
Sorry for the delay. It’s the same G8 bulb that you’re testing in the other thread.
Perfect, ok – well, at least we’ve been able to replicate this one.
I’ll link others to it for reference: LZW30 not turning off completely
I’m hoping they can solve this with a firmware fix, but my gut tells me it’s a hardware issue and it has something to do with the neutral wire.
I’ll PM you as well to take care of this issue for you.
Thanks @Eric_Inovelli. Ifvthe dimmer works, I won’t mind switching mine out. I just want the 3 way to work like normal. I have a 4 way that I’m waiting for the dimmer too.
All, so I just spent the last 12 hours straight and I finally figured this and some of the other issues out. I don’t have the time right now to go into detail however the just of it comes down to so may variables in a very complex smart switch. All in all, the reason this company can’t replicate the problem is… no offense… there is no problem. The switches are working as designed. If you are having the issue of shutting off the dummy and then it does not come back on, or the other issue Dharm was having, then from what I can tell, you must not have completed the circuit back around to the 3 way again or, you need to adjust the total brightness level allowed on the dimmer, set it to 75 and the light stay on when you flip the switch. I solved this two different ways. The main 3 way issue I solved by simply not using the even though I have one. Just cap It off and forget about it. The other route I did to complete the circuit was to connect the smart switch up as it’s displayed in the diagram that comes with the switch. On the dummy side, only connect the load to the black screw and the traveler to the screw on the opposite side. Make sure you change your settings to show that you are not using a neutral. When I get a little more time I will dry out a diagram as well as outline all of the settings and preferences that I needed to change in order for everything to work correctly. I’m betting that there is a safety inside these switches that will click off and everyone so far on this thread has been calling it a relay sound, in fact I’m willing to bet it is a safety mechanism to protect the switch. I have found when I slip on my lights with the dummy switch I get that clicking sound but nothing happens, I go into the settings and lower my brightness to 75% and everything works fine no clicking sound. Anyways again, it seems to me the switches are working as designed it comes down to the complex preferences settings and knowing how to make sure you complete the circuit with the wiring. Talk soon.
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eager to hear more details. seems to be exactly the problem I’m having. unfortunately I swapped the switch back and was going to try installing it in a different location to see if that would help.
I’ve got a 3-way that controls 6 LED cans. Had it wires as “Line/Load Separate Boxes” per the Inovelli instructions, as both switches that i’m trying to replace are wired with a black common, a black and red traveler, and white neutral in the box, but not connected to the switches themselves.
I set the parameters in my Hubitat as AC Power Type: neutral and Switch Type as 3-way toggle.
I’m presume you’re talking about the neutral here:
The main 3 way issue I solved by simply not using the even though I have one. Just cap It off and forget about it.
I’ve resolved all my 3 and 4 way issues with the On/Off and Dimmer Switches. I have 22 Inovelli switches installed using Hubitat as my controller. For the dimmer switches, setting the neutral and 3-way toggle/momentary solved all my issues. As for the on/off switch, I had an issue that I couldn’t solve. Eric worked with the manufacturer and found that dimmable bulbs could be the culprit in an on/off situation; however, I resolved my issue by utilizing a GE Add on switch. I wired it in, and it immediately worked as designed upon power restore. I know not everyone wants to install an add on switch after spending a lot of money on the Red or Black series switches, but it definitely saved me some headaches. Plus I got half the switches for $2.50 at Lowes (clearance/close out), so it wasn’t too bad. I just wanted to share my experiences and solutions.
@harjms so with the invoelli red dimmer 3-way switches, you don’t experience this issue with a dumb switch?
I currently have the Red without dimming, and I am defintely experiencing this issue that you describe.
@wesleyjw - Correct. I had two that would not work in a 3 way with just the on/off switch. I had one switch that worked right away. I replaced one of the two with a dimmer red series and had no problem with 3 way after changing the correct parameters. The garage one (two of two) I left as is because its controlled via rule machine and in the garage so not used. I replaced all dumb switches with aux add ons and that ultimately solved the issue with my garage on/off switch.