Is it possible to kill the switch with this mode? I just tried it and it dimmed up once and down once and now it stopped working.
It shouldn’t, although anything is possible. I’ve turned on trailing edge many times during testing without issue.
Did you try pulling the airgap to reboot the switch?
Also, what firmware are you on?
I pulled the air gap. Nothing. No LED activity at all, nothing happening at the load.
I updated the firmware from HA immediately after it was added to ZHA. 0x01020212. I didn’t see the leading/trailing edge config in the HA, so I used the config button. I saw the cyan LED (and the orange after I changed it to dimming mode).
I’m a bit concerned, as I’ve installed 4 of these so far, and 2 died when setting configurations (one died when I set the relay sound to be off) and 1 has an air gap switch that doesn’t air gap and 1 doesn’t connect to ZHA (but that’s at the edge of the radio range, so I was hoping adding the 2 new switches today would get be extended enough to reach that one). Oh, and the one that the air gap doesn’t work also doesn’t turn off. The LED load is faintly on when “off”, even if I configure it to switch instead of dimmer mode.
I’ve never installed Zigbee dimmers before, but I’ve installed tons of Lutron Maestro and Leviton Dimension dimmers and never had one fail. So I’m wondering if this is a bad batch thing or if there’s some unwritten instruction on how to install and configure these that I need to know. I have another 70 left to install, plus 15 aux, so I’d like to figure out what I’m doing wrong.
I asked about the firmware as earlier versions didn’t have trailing edge, but since you got the cyan confirmation, I’m guessing you’re good in that regard. (Not sure how that hex translates to the version.)
Setting trailing edge at the switch was correct, as it’s required there for safety reasons. AFAIK, you can’t set it via a hub.
So it sounds as if you’ve had issues with 3 of the 4 switches you’ve attempted to install thus far. That is somewhat strange, as Inovelli’s failure rate is extemely low (like less than 1%), and your failure rate is 75%.
Did you buy these directly from Inovelli?
It’s now 4/4, as the air gap stopped working on another one. Very, very unusual.
Yes, these were new from Inovelli. The boxes were sealed and the instruction manual in the boxes were not damaged, so unless they didn’t like sitting on a shelf in an unheated garage, I don’t know what would be the issue.
I might just have something funky in these two electrical boxes I started with. I’ll open the next box and set it up on a workbench to see if I can get “normal” operation going. Then check the wiring in the boxes to see if anything is suspicious. The Lutron dimmers I had in before were operating flawlessly, but maybe they’re not as sensitive.
EDIT: Took out a multimeter to check the box. 124V hot to neutral and hot to ground. <1V neutral to ground. On one of the not-dead dimmers, the load to neutral was 122V at full brightness, and 88V at full dim. I have no idea what to expect for that last number.
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It should go much lower than 88V with a neutral.
I have a couple LZW31-SN Red dimmers still in the box. I will try them and see if it acts any differently at the low dimming limit.
Update.
The VZM31-SN in trailing edge mode seems to work with single pole full sine, but not with the default single pole mode.
The LZW31-SN doesn’t turn off fully, like the VZM31-SN.
The Eaton RF9640-NDW dimmer I tried has a relay that shuts off power completely when it finishes ramping down when turned off. Can the Inovelli dimmers do that?
Yes, turn on the relay click and try that.
Relay click has no effect.