Has anyone created a setup with Blue 2-1s in smart bulb mode and Halo Wiz Pro Wifi downlights with Home Assistant as their backbone?
If anyone has any experience with those Cooper/Halo Wiz Pro units I’m curious how:
1). The lights responsiveness to going form Zigbee to Wifi, especially when it comes to dimming
2). The CCT color rendering light quality of these lights
3) The reliability of the setup
I’m ready to pull the plug on hoping Juno will ever get their CCT Connected Zigbee downlights working right. -It’s a shame, the product when it works ticked all the boxes (binding, CCT, Dimming down to 1%).
As long as you have a hub that can speak to both the 2-1s and the Halo WiFi downlights, you can absolutely make it work.
Just be aware that the switch will not speak directly to the lights. Because of this, and this is the most important part to know before pulling the trigger, there will be a noticeable delay. This doesn’t mean the delay will be a long one. It can be as small as a half second. But when you’re used to pressing the light switch and having that instant light on with hardwired devices, even a half second is noticeable. This also means if the hub is ever down for any reason, you won’t have control of these lights.
With that out of the way, the whole thing is relatively easy to setup. Just do an automation with the switch as the trigger. A simple automation like if switch = on then turn on downlights. Dimming is a little more complicated but same general idea. Depending on your hub there are also blueprints or apps to do exactly this.
As for the quality of the lights… I can’t help you at all there because I’ve never even heard of them lol
@Rxich, Good call on their forum. I still have my C7 running in the pool shed!
@MRobi, Thanks,
Fully understood what you’re saying.
Ideally, I’d love to find another Zigbee 4" LED downlight that has CCT tunability and works with binding, but just haven’t found anything on the market. I’ve seen a GLEDOPTO one, but the CRI ratings are low and the depth of the unit is worse which would crash with structure in some spots…
It’s that lag effect on dimming that I’m concerned about. I’ll probably buy a couple and prototype to see how it goes.
With 64 4" holes without cans already in place, going with something with the same size footprint in key to both my ceilings and my WAF -we both prefer the 4" size over 6".
But we may get there, we might very well get there. One room at a time.
There are good 4" retrofit cans that you could add without needing attic access or bigger holes. I’ve installed a lot of these in my house in similar situations.