So my double tap up does go to ~40%. I can push and hold up paddle to finish getting it to 100%. I use double tap down for a scene so don’t know about double down. I believe @mamber is working at designed.
Yes, identical here. Assuming this is a bug then…maybe.
Feature
This is a scaling error in the driver. 99/255 = 39%
Make sure you are running the latest driver. I fixed it in the Hubitat driver a couple weeks ago (2023-04-11 driver date). I don’t know the status of other hub platforms (SmartThings, HomeAssistant, etc.)
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Ahh I was on 4-10-23. Crazy what a day makes. Issue is fixed on Hubitat for me.
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Interesting. Good catch. For smartthings, I am on the latest driver and don’t see reference to a scaling fix in the update log. I’m assuming that means I should let @EricM_Inovelli know that there might be some sort of a scaling issue in the driver? For Smartthings as far as I know, Inovelli has to update the driver and push it out.
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I’ve used a few on florescent lights without issue.
However, I don’t believe I have a magnetic ballast, I believe it’s an electronic ballast.
Either way, it’s probably best not to hook up any Blue Switches to florescent lighting modules.
Sorry, I don’t understand. Are you saying this is an intended feature?
Um, that was a joke . . .
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Sorry, just my sarcasm at work. I think once the edge driver gets updated then it should resolve your issue. It’s working great now on Hubitat. I should’ve checked for the most updated driver, but didn’t think Mark was whipping out drivers as quick as he’s been getting new features.
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Are you not using HPM on Hubitat? It notifies you when an update is available.
(But of course, I would prefer that you help me test new versions by running the beta drivers which aren’t available via HPM)
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I do use HPM on one of the Hubitat units; the other I don’t use. I don’t always go into the apps package to check for updates, so unless there’s a big notification like for Hubitat updates, then I most likely will over look it. I’m sure there’s a rule to setup a notification…
Probably doesn’t matter since you’re going to start running the latest beta versions from now on, right? 
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FYI - re: the magnetic ballast thing.
I do believe the new firmware had something to do with it. When these switches were on 2.08, I had them controlling the florescent lights (with the magnetic ballast) just fine. They were in on/off mode (obviously) not dimming (both before and after firmware upgrade).
It was only really when I upgraded their firmware they started to self-destruct, specifically in this manner. So something in the firmware changed in how it handled the feedback from the magnetic ballast, or sent the signal to the ballast differently which caused it to feed back more, or something.
(kept in this thread because it IS firmware related)
Ok, I can talk to the engineer with you in MS Teams to try to figure this out. I’m not sure what would’ve changed aside maybe the leading/trailing edge had something to do with it? Honestly not sure.
I just fixed this and will push it out a little later today.
I had a similar experience to @PreZ. When I first installed the switches, one of them was controlling some under-cabinet fluorescent lights in the kitchen, and it worked fine and I thought nothing of it. Once I updated that switch to 2.14, it became permanently stuck on.
Leading edge dimming cuts out the front edge of each waves half cycle.
Trailing edge dimming cuts out the second half of each waves half cycle.
In ON/OFF mode, neither of these apply as this will only change behavior when dimming the load. I have personally tested the oscillations with my scope. I have however noticed a difference in the wave’s severity when relay click is ON. It seems much more like a sine wave when the switch is in ON/OFF mode with relay click DISABLED.
It does appear max power output was changed, but I’m not sure if that was only used for dimming mode… It appears to be used regardless. Max brightness is higher in 2.14. You can set it lower and it may fix your issue.
Either way, these switches were never meant for any type of motor or inductive load and so the point is somewhat moot. Installing them can not only cause a fire, but it will fail a home inspection if you decide to sell later.
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Can you try to change it to full-sine mode? Or 3-way dumb mode to see if it makes a difference?
Oh, good call. I’ll try that, but since I’m on Z2M, I think I need to wait for the next Z2M update to see the full sine wave parameter…?