You can power cycle them by pulling the air gap on the bottom left (little white tab) all the way out (should see it go dark) and then pushing it back in.
Those are all in the main blocks of ieee space being looked at unfortunately (tip if you’re looking for which to install, the little sticker in the box has IEEE listed as EUI if you want to check to see if you have others as well). I have a few of each and while I was able to get one to pair, it definitely has low LQI despite being very close to the coordinator.
Oh man, thanks to you and stu1811 for that air gap hint. I had already evicted that knowledge from my brain!
As for the sticker, I’d love to know if anyone has destructured the QR code on the front of the device yet & knows if it contains the IEEE address; that would make it much easier to inventory large numbers of them 
Edit: There are plenty of QR code-scanning apps that will decode the front-facing sticker just fine & the format is easy to decipher too: Fields are colon-separated, starts with a Z: and the second field is the IEEE address. That’ll make it much easier to find which switch is which.
Yeah, you gotta yank that air-gap out pretty hard – initially, I was just getting it about halfway and thought all mine were defective.
Google Lens can read the QR code to get the IEEE address
Yeah I used a qr scanner on all mine last night, I recommend only bothering to install them right now if they aren’t from the impacted batch, otherwise you’re going to risk disappointment
There are a lot of listed IEEE addresses. Is there a consolidated list of which to look out for? I’ve got my switches coming today (fingers crossed) and would like to avoid opening the ones that may have issues.
These are the 2 main blocks that seem to be problematic -
94:34:69
38:5b:44
You have to open it to find out the ieee
Update, I have one single switch with a non-affected IEEE address, 040d84fffe02b4ce; that is able to mesh with all devices next to it and gets pretty excellent connection quality indicators. It even gets a direct link to the coordinator, despite being the switch that’s the furthest removed from it.
I have 2 04:0d:84 switches out of 10 and these are the only ones with an LQI consistently over 50.
The others are in the known “issue” group 94:34:69 and 38:5b:44 and are usually below 50.
I also have a switch inside a double gang box along with a z-wave fan switch and it reports as 0 most of the time.
Just my luck. Received my 50 blue switches today and every single one is from either of the two effected lots. Debating even trying to install them at this point. Has anyone had these work with these lot numbers?
I have one currently installed and working, but it’s maybe 10ft from the coordinator on the other side of the wall. If you have a solid Zigbee mesh and you follow the general suggestions for Zigbee (usb extension cable, planned separation of wifi/zigbee channels, etc), you may be fine, but it’s really hard to tell offhand unfortunately.
Edit - I do have a couple others from those lots for clarity, they’re staying in boxes for now unless I need to do something specific testing-wise with them.
I’ve got 10 94:34:69 switches. I’ve installed 5. They were a little tricky to pair. I have some Ikea tradfri outlets/repeaters and I’ve had to place them very near the switches.
I just thought this was a zigbee range issue versus Z-Wave because my red switches have much better range. They work but I hope this can be fixed and I can remove the Ikea repeaters or place them where I want.
Took one out of the pack to test out. 943469 ieee. Not much issue pairing, lqi listed at 61 shrug. We’ll see how it goes
Of the 10 switches I ordered I got
4 94:34:69
4 38:5B:44
2 04:0D84
I have installed 5 switches
1 I can not get connected and 4 seem to be working but I haven’t checked the signal strengths.
The final 4 are on hold until I hear more. The most critical spots (the 4 that are working) that i was dying to put switches in are working so I can wait out the rest. I know Eric is doing his best and will get to the bottom of it.
I should have checked the forum before wasting hours. better yet, Inovelli could have sent an informative email out to all buyers. (Why didn’t this happen?)
For two years I’ve had close to zero issues with Zigbee. I went through three different homes, through Conbee 2, Sonoff P, ZHA and z2m. Even zero issues with notoriously bad Aqara devices. My current place is large, I use 30 devices in remote locations and have no Zigbee issues.
Few days ago came the package I’ve been waiting for half a year. But then: Switches don’t pair. One of them paired but then connection lost. I wasted hours and started thinking I must be stupid.
At least I’m happy to see I’m not alone.
I hope Inovelli is putting all resources in tracking this down and I hope it will be firmware fixable.
If not, the switches are plain broken and hope we’ll get replacement.
Edit: I made it through the whole thread now and I see invovelli is actively looking at it and issue might be missed/wrong calibration of frequency offset. I’ll check my batch tomorrow and see if they match posted IEEE addresses
I’ll throw my confirming experience… all 10 of mine are in the 2 batches identified… I put one on the test bench today and it wouldn’t pair for anything… its probably 15 feet from my Hubitat with no other zigbee device close by, so it would have to communicate directly with the hub. 10 tries, nothing at all.
Plugged a Zigbee outlet in the plug on my test bench, paired instantaneously. Then it picked up the switch and paired with no issue.
I think this confirms I’m definitely seeing the same issues as above… If nothing else, hard to trust that these will work, which puts my install on hold.
Hoping there is a customer possible fix here and we aren’t waiting for new batches in December! I know the Inovelli team will make it right.
We are having a phone call with them tonight or early tomorrow morning to figure out what’s going on. I’m going to send out an email now as this seems like a bigger problem than we initially thought (I wrote in the email to them that it was wide-spread, but that was to get their attention… now I am afraid that it is actually wide-spread). We’ve been running our own tests behind the scenes and unfortunately we don’t have the proper tools to get to a proper conclusion (we have our theories, but I’d rather report the exact issue than speculate at this point).
The owner is aware of the issue and has stated they will replace these if this turns out to be a hardware issue:
My advice now is to either not install your switches or you can install them and if it turns out to be something that needs to be replaced, keep it in your wall as it still acts as a normal on/off or dimming switch until we can send replacements.
I know this is frustrating and I am working as hard as I can with the manufacturer for a proper resolution. I’m very sorry for the time wasted and WAF points that have taken a hit.
More about this tomorrow.
Thanks Eric for the update. If it turns out we need to swap for replacements for those of us that have these installed will we need to send in the old units first before replacements are sent?
I threw away all the old switches I replaced so hoping if replacements is needed they would be sent to us first so we can avoid not having any switches in the interim.